Tokaj, renowned for its sweet Aszú wines, is now gaining recognition for its dry wines as well.
Furmint, which constitutes about 60% of Tokaj’s vineyards, is famous for producing the region's botrytised wines due to its compact, thin-skinned, late-ripening grapes that are highly susceptible to noble rot.
This grape’s high acidity balances the sweetness, a key feature in wines like the Disznókő 2016 Tokaji Aszú 6 Puttonyos, which has 177 grams of residual sugar per liter.
Despite the acclaim for sweet Furmint wines, there is a rising interest in its dry expressions, a trend rooted in tradition. An example is Disznókő’s Tokaji Száraz Szamorodni, a drier style with the 2018 vintage containing only 0.8g/l of residual sugar, compared to 90g/l in their 2020 Late Harvest. This wine, once nearly forgotten, is experiencing a revival, thanks to sommeliers. It stands out due to the use of some barrels with flor, a yeast layer that imparts a sherry-like aroma of bruised apple, making it reminiscent of Fino Sherry in blind tastings.
The New Generation
Disznókő is also promoting Tokaji Dry, a modern style of low-sugar wines. Their single-varietal Furmint under the Inspiration label varies yearly; the 2021 was 100% Furmint, while the 2022 included 15% Hárslevelű, Tokaj’s second most-planted grape. Disznókő’s winemaking has evolved significantly, with later harvests and a deeper understanding of vineyard sites. Their 112 hectares of vineyards span three extinct volcanoes, allowing for precise blending of plot-specific wines.
Their recent harvests reflect this understanding: the 2023 harvest occurred in late September, later than average, while the 2022 harvest was in late August. In the cellar, they've embraced controlled oxygenation during vinification, enhancing stability post-bottling. They’ve also experimented with various fermentation techniques, including spontaneous fermentation and malolactic conversion, which they ceased using after 2016 to maintain the wine's freshness and balance.
Market Potential
Dry Furmint’s high acidity and salinity make it an excellent gastronomic wine, pairing well with shellfish and spicy foods. Despite moderate alcohol levels, like the 13.5% ABV of the 2022 Furmint Tokaji Dry, these wines remain palatably dry with low residual sugar. While interest among sommeliers is growing, sales impact is gradual. Disznókő’s focus remains on their sweet wines, which constitute 70% of their annual production of 200,000-300,000 bottles, contrary to the overall Tokaj region, where dry wines dominate.
Although dry wines have potential, Mészáros notes that Tokaji Aszú’s reputation in the sweet wine category is unmatched. While Furmint can produce excellent dry wines, it faces stiff competition from similar white wines, like those from the Loire. The market for sweet wines is smaller but less competitive, allowing Tokaji Aszú to hold a significant share. Disznókő also dabbles in sparkling Furmint, producing about 1,000 bottles for fun, but it’s not part of their commercial portfolio.
Disznókő is part of the AXA Millésimes portfolio, which includes prestigious names like Pauillac’s Château Pichon Baron and Quinta do Noval in the Douro.
Source: The Drinks Business