In 1703 Louis XIV declared the sweet wine from Tokaj as "the wine of kings, the king of wines", and the "belle époque" for Hungarian wines has started. It was a period of great awareness in Europe, when the wine was the main "guest" at the highest royal houses in Europe (Austria, France, Russia, Great Britain), but also enjoyed by many politicians, diplomats and artists.
What was (and is) the source for this great wine? The answer is the white grapes' base for Tokaj wine from Tokaj region in Hungary, consisting of Furmint, Hárslevelű, Sárgamuskotály, Kövérszőlő, Kabar and Zéta.
The Tokaj grape flagship and the most cultivated one is Furmint, 60-65% of vineyards, hence, I invite you to explore this grape in more details.
Origins and geographic presence
The origin of Furmint grape is still debated from Tokaj (Hungary) to Neusiedl Lake area (Austria) and Syrmia (Serbia), but also Italy and France are possible sources for it. Recent analysis would point more that Tokaj would be the origination, the cradle of Furmint grape. What is certain, Furmint is a descendant of Gouais Blanc, the same grape family of Riesling and Chardonnay.
The Tokaj terroir is the most famous Hungarian wine region and it is unique and specific - the rich volcano clay soils and micro-climate marked by natural borders (rivers and mountains), it has given an own character and complexity to its wines.
It is estimated that the total area of Furmint vineyards In Tokaj are of 3,950 hectares. In Austria it is planted on 31 ha, mainly in Burgenland, Steiermark and Niederösterreich.
Tokaj is the Hungarian most notorious wine, the sweet one is known for centuries but the dry white wine, which is more and more produced nowadays, from Furmint and other grapes, is being recognized for its quality too.
The sweet Tokaj as we know it today dates back from 16-17th centuries. The story is around Zsuzsanna Lórántffy, wife of Prince György Rákóczi I, the region's landowner, and László Máté Szepsi, the court minister, who decided to postpone the harvest due to the Otoman (Turkish) invasion. When the grapes were harvested, they had shriveled on the vines, but decision was to make wine anyway, and so, the Tokaj Aszú was born.
What exactly is Tokaj Aszú? Here we have a Hungarian know-how in terms of wine production. The harvesting of Aszú usually starts in mid-October when the grapes have already got the noble rot, essential for Aszú wine. The collected Aszú berries are put together into a large baskets, called puttony, with non-botrytis grape must. After maceration, the wine is transferred into oak barrels, (oak is from the Zemplén forest), and left for aging few years in the underground stone cellars.
Back to puttony, it measures the sweetness of Tokaj Aszú, thus, the system of labeling wines with 3–6 puttonyos was developed. The Aszú wine with 5 or 6 puttony is considered the most valued and prized. Even though this system was replaced few years ago, in order to avoid confusion on Aszú type and to standardize it, some winegrowers still keep the information on label for marketing purposes.
Concerning the dry white wine of Furmint, a decade or two ago probably they were unknown, but its status has been changed, and they continue to earn interest. Currently, Tokaj region produces around 50-55% dry white wines, depending on weather and climate.
Wine styles and aromas
Generally, Furmint delivers high quality wines, with great potential for longevity.
The Tokaj sweet wine is original, full-bodied, honeyed and expressive wine. Aszú wine style is rich and balanced, the high acidity compensating the high sugar content. Also Aszú tasting is also fresh and full of flavors, like apricot, peach, pear, lime, fig, pineapple, orange zest, grapefruit, black currant or plum. Oak aging gives other spices - vanilla, ginger and coffee.
The Tokaj dry wines are fresh and complex, highly aromatic, with notes of green apple, citrus, spicy oak, with a prolonged mineral aftertaste.
Pairing
The Furmint wine develops well in bottle, and it is best served chilled, and it could be consumed everyday or on occasions. The classic pair is with foie gras and blue cheese, but it pairs well with creamy dishes, vegetables, herb-crusted poultry and chicken, fish and pork dishes. It greatly pairs with spicy Asian food (sushi, dumplings).
On dessert side, Furmints would fit best with Christmas cakes, strudel, or cakes with caramel.
Instead of conclusion
Hungarian Tokaj is one of the most original, complex and delicious wine, telling a story from the glorious past. Full-bodied and sophisticated, it reveals the entire history of Hungary through every drop of the fluid inside the bottle.
Tokaj wine was, is and, probably, will be a Hungarian symbol - a perfection of Hungarian winemakers.