Hungary has long been celebrated for its rich winemaking traditions, with vineyards dotting the landscape from Lake Balaton in the west to the famed Tokaj region in the east.
However, this summer, Hungary's winemakers are facing unprecedented challenges as the country recorded its hottest July since temperature tracking began in 1901.
The scorching heat has forced some winemakers to start harvesting their grapes in early August, a drastic shift from the usual timeline that could have far-reaching consequences for Hungary's wine industry.
A Heatwave Like Never Before
Laszlo Kerek, a seasoned grape grower with 35 years of experience in Balatonlelle, south of Lake Balaton, is among those who have been compelled to begin the harvest much earlier than usual. "I do not remember ever harvesting this variety of grape this early... we are at least a month early," Kerek remarked while harvesting grapes by hand with his family. He attributes this early harvest to one undeniable factor: climate change. "Nothing else but climate change," he emphasized, echoing the concerns of many in Hungary's winemaking community.
The extreme temperatures have been confirmed by the National Meteorological Service, which reported that July 2023 was the hottest in Hungary since records began over a century ago. This heatwave is not just a passing anomaly but part of a broader trend that is raising alarm among scientists and winemakers alike.
The Impact of Rising Temperatures on Winemaking
Peter Szabo, a climate scientist at Eotvos Lorand University, has been closely monitoring the effects of climate change on Hungary's agriculture. According to Szabo, Hungary's winemaking regions have experienced a 25% increase in growing degree days, a metric that measures heat accumulation until crops reach maturity. This increase signifies that crops, including grapes, are ripening faster due to the hotter temperatures.
"Our models show that growing degree days will keep rising, and Hungary's climate will then no longer be ideal for white wine," Szabo warned. This prediction is particularly concerning for Hungary, where over two-thirds of winemakers produce grapes for white wines. The country's reputation for high-quality white wines, including the world-renowned Tokaji, is at stake as the climate continues to warm.
Adapting to a New Reality
Despite the grim forecasts, Hungarian winemakers are not ready to give up on their traditional white wines just yet. Instead, they are exploring ways to adapt to the changing climate. Peter Varga, the owner of Varga Winery in Badacsonyors near Lake Balaton, believes that while the shift in climate poses challenges, it also presents new opportunities. "It looks like we will be the new Mediterranean region... so, this shift might not necessarily be unwelcome for Hungarian winemaking, but we need to adapt," Varga said.
Varga's winery, which produces 15 million bottles annually, is already implementing strategies to mitigate the impact of the intense heat. These include minimizing direct sunlight exposure for grapes and considering planting new vines on east-facing slopes instead of the more traditional south-facing ones, which receive more sunlight.
Tokaj's Uncertain Future
The Tokaj region, located in eastern Hungary, is particularly vulnerable to the effects of climate change. Famous for its sweet, late-harvest Tokaji wines, the region relies on cool and humid October mornings to cultivate the grapes necessary for this signature wine. However, as summers grow hotter and autumns more unpredictable, winemakers like Andras Kanczler of the Basilicus Winery are growing increasingly concerned.
"Cool and humid October mornings are vital for our grape growing," Kanczler explained. Yet, he also noted a potential silver lining: "The risk posed by unpredictable fall weather can be a bit lower if grapes ripen earlier." Earlier ripening could, in some cases, allow winemakers to avoid the risks associated with late-season weather variability. However, this also means that the delicate balance needed to produce the perfect Tokaji wine could be disrupted.
A Crossroad for Hungary's Winemaking Industry
Hungary's winemakers are at a crossroads. On one hand, they face the immediate threat of rising temperatures that could alter the very nature of the wines they produce. On the other, there is the potential to adapt and even thrive in this new, warmer climate, but this will require innovation, investment, and a willingness to embrace change.
The early harvests of 2023 serve as a stark reminder that climate change is not a distant concern—it is here now, reshaping industries and traditions that have stood the test of time. For Hungary's winemakers, the challenge is clear: adapt or risk losing a vital part of the nation's cultural and economic heritage. While the road ahead is uncertain, one thing is clear: the resilience and ingenuity of Hungary's winemakers will be crucial in navigating this new era of winemaking.
Source: Reuters