An invitation from Decanter beckons wine enthusiasts to explore Croatia's captivating Istria region and its celebrated flagship grape, Malvazija Istarska.
Millions of global tourists flock to Croatia annually, with Istria standing out as a favorite destination, especially among German visitors who can easily reach it by car within hours. This largest Adriatic peninsula boasts a breathtaking landscape, bordered by sea on three sides and cooled by breezes from the Julian Alps to the north.
The scenery is nothing short of spectacular, adorned with clear seas, ancient Roman ruins (such as Pula’s awe-inspiring amphitheatre), fortified coastal towns, and medieval hilltop villages. Vineyards carpet the land, interspersed with olive groves yielding award-winning oils.
The Versatile Malvazija
Exploring local wines unveils Istria's essence, notably through its exceptional native grapes. Leading the charge is Malvazija Istarska, a distinct white variety likely originating here and distinct from other similarly named Malvasia grapes. Its name harks back to Venetian traders of centuries past, but today, its claim to fame lies in crafting exquisite wines.
Malvazija showcases remarkable versatility. Most wines undergo steel fermentation, preserving vibrant fruitiness ideal for pairing with Istria's abundant seafood. However, the grape also lends itself to nuanced winemaking techniques: cold maceration before fermentation enhances weight and aromatic complexity, while skin contact during fermentation, occasionally in amphorae, results in intriguing orange wine styles. Aging in wood, whether oak, mulberry, or acacia, further diversifies its aromatic profile, imparting gentle honeyed nuances.
Fruits of the Earth
Producers increasingly highlight their finest vineyard expressions, showcasing Istria's superb terroir. The peninsula's predominantly karst bedrock offers four primary soil types: red Terra Rossa, limestone-rich white, grey flysch, and humus-rich black. Red soils typically yield structured wines, whether red or white, while white soils emphasize fragrance. Meanwhile, black soils enhance fruitiness, and grey soils strike a balance between aromatic finesse and weight.
Putting Istria on the Wine Map
Vinistra, established in 1994, champions Istria's wines and collaborative spirit. Representing 120 key producers, Vinistra aims to elevate the region's global presence. In 2024, they are showcasing 14 producers at Prowein, the world's premier wine fair in Düsseldorf, Germany. President Luka Rossi underscores Germany's significance as Croatia's top tourism market, emphasizing the presentation of indigenous treasures like Malvazija Istarska and Teran.
Caroline Gilby MW will lead masterclasses at Prowein, delving into Malvazija's allure and Istria's diverse varietal spectrum. Additionally, Vinistra hosts the World of Malvasia competition, featuring global Malvasia samples.
From May 10 to 12, Vinistra celebrates its 30th anniversary at Istria's largest wine fair in Poreč, welcoming both trade professionals and the public. In June, the Decanter World Wine Awards winners will be showcased in Istria, accompanied by a study trip for industry experts.
In a world craving authenticity and quality, Istria promises a bounty of exceptional wines. 2024 presents myriad opportunities to uncover this dynamic and picturesque wine region.
Source: Decanter