Widely cultivated in the Mediterranean basin, but also on the shores of eastern Atlantic and the US, Malvasia is a white grape variety, representing the wine history, with roots in the antiquity, and beautifully preserved up to current times.
Malvasia is a versatile, often an aromatic and easy-drinking white wine with high stylistic potential. JancisRobinson.com describes it as "to be a deeply colored, quite alcoholic wine which can oxidize easily but has an intensely nutty character, sometimes with notes of orange peel and dried fruits".
There are countless famous Malvasia wines today, the most known probably is the Madeira-grown grape called Malmsey produced on the Portuguese island of Madeira in the North Atlantic.
But, where the Malvasia grape comes from? What are the characteristics of Malvasia wine?
Origins and geographic presence
The origins of Malvasia grape is still unclear, but many wine experts are attribute to Greece as a home country. More specifically it is the area around the city of Monemvasia in the Peloponnese. During Middle Ages the city was controlled by Venice, and Malvasia wine became a very important product of Venetian merchants, a strong brand name for their wine storages and taverns, called "Malvasie" or "Malvasia".
Nowadays, the Malvasia grapes are cultivated in many Mediterranean countries, such as Italy, Greece, Croatia, Slovenia, Spain, but also in Portugal (including Madeira) and the US (California).
I would like to focus primarily on the grape grown in Croatia, more precisely on Istrian Peninsula, which is named Malvasia Istriana (or Malvazija Istarska in Croatian).
Why this grape? Because it belongs to an old and distinctive grape of Malvasia, and the recent ampelographic and genetic research assigns the grape to an individual and indigenous Istrian variety. According to the Association of winegrowers and winemakers of Istria - Vinistra, "Malvasia, is the Istrian eno-star, and has been present in this region for a very long time, but it was officially mentioned for the first time at the Zagreb Wine Exhibition in 1891".
Malvasia Istriana, disease-resistant grape, is the most planted grape in Istria, with vineyards all around the region, comprising of 60-70% of white wine production. In an SevenFifty Daily article, Alen Britvarević, Sales and Marketing Director of Meneghetti Winery, has mentioned that "all 130 winemakers [in Istria’s Vinistra association] have Malvazija in their assortment. We do not see ourselves as competitors; rather, we act together on the market with the aim of promoting and developing the variety on a global level".
Wine styles and aromas
Generally, Malvasia Istriana wine styles differ from location, sun exposure and production technology. The aromas cover a range from mineral to floral and stone and even tropical fruits.
The Malvasia wine-tasting was focused for several wines from two istrian wine producers: Meneghetti Winery and Trapan Wines.
Meneghetti Winery offers a premium-wines range and is at the top of the Croatian wine portfolio.
- Malvazija 2022 is an elegant and interesting dry white wine; on the nose, apple, stone fruits and almont confirm at the wine taste. On the palate, the wine is easy-drinking, medium-body, balanced alcohol and acidity, and very aromatic with notes of Istrian herbs.
- Black Label Malvazija 2021 is a full-body and complex white wine; on the nose, apple, pear and floral notes. On the palate, the wine develops into a balanced texture of alcohol, acidity and freshness, with a medium-to-long aftertaste.
Malvasia wines from Trapan Wines have a distinguished particularity: they are produced organically. Hence, the 2018, 2019 and 2020 vintages are complex, full-body and delicate wines.
- The Uroboros vintages bring notes of pears, apples and floral combined with sage honey, with a long and strong mineral-salty taste.
- The Istraditional vintage is a medium-to-full, rich and interesting wine. At nose, you get honey, acacia, stone and tropical fruits. On the palate, the wine is more balanced and consistent through its tannin and alcohol content, with a strong mineral aftertaste.
Pairing
When pairing the Malvasia Istrian we should consider the regional context, and Istrian Peninsula offers a variety of dishes, but focus will be definitely the seafood (fishes, crabs, shrimps, oysters), white meat, truffle and vegetables. It is a great match for Asian dishes, pasta, salads and blue cheese risotto
Instead of conclusion
Malvasia grape can provide an excellent wine for any style. Rich taste, a "bouquet" of aromas, strong and complex character with underrated potential, the wine is a delightful companion at all events!
At the Concours Mondial de Bruxelles (CMB) 2023 contest two Malvasia wines from Istria has received gold medals: Amfora Malvazija 2020 of Kabola Winery and Vivoda Malvazija Istarska 2022 of Poljoprivredni Obrt Vivoda. At this is just one more step ahead for Malvasia to increase its awareness and to communicate about its wine characteristics and styles.
Enjoy it responsibly!