The largest showcase of Austrian wine and perhaps the most elegant wine trade fair in the world, VieVinum, took place from May 25 to 27, 2024.
This prestigious wine event offered a unique opportunity for Austrian winegrowers and connoisseurs from around the globe to meet, discuss, and enjoy wine together.
Reflecting Austria's dynamic wine sector, VieVinum demonstrated how the industry is adapting while preserving its identity by embracing new classification systems, grape varieties, and styles.
Austria's Evolving Wine Landscape
It's tempting to view Austria as a 'plucky underdog' compared to wine powerhouses like Italy and France. With nearly 45,000 hectares under vine, Austria's vineyard area is less than half that of Bordeaux. However, such a view overlooks Austria's millennia-long history of grape growing and its leading role in viticultural and oenological advancements.
A significant milestone for Austrian wine occurred last year with the approval of a new vineyard classification system. Chris Yorke, CEO of the Austrian Wine Marketing Board, humorously noted during his presentation that "we love a good regulation in Austria." In 2023, the Thermenregion became a DAC (Districtus Austriae Controllatus), completing Austria’s regional structuring.
Defining DACs and Classifying Vineyards
"We have spent the last 20 years on a really important journey, defining our DACs and the typicity of each region," Yorke explained. "This forms the basis of our next 20 years…now we have the ability to classify those single vineyards, as long as they fit into the DAC system." Under the new system, individual vineyard sites can be classified as Erste Lage (Premier Cru) or Grosse Lage (Grand Cru).
Yorke expects the first vineyard classifications to be completed next year. To achieve these classifications, producers must meet specific criteria, including historical significance, soil homogeneity, and national and international ratings of the soil. "Austria is the first wine country in the world to do this nationally," Yorke proudly stated.
Vienna's Unique Viticultural Position
Austria’s wine regions are often associated with picturesque landscapes, but Vienna itself is a wine-growing region with 582 hectares under vine. The Wiener Gemischter Satz, or Viennese field blend, achieved DAC status in 2013. In 2023, Vienna welcomed 17,261,000 overnight visitors, a 31% increase from 2022, highlighting the city’s growing appeal as a wine tourism destination.
Austrian Wine Regions and Highlights
Kamptal, located in Lower Austria, is renowned for its rich and varied terroirs, producing some of Austria’s most distinguished wines. Weingut Steininger from Kamptal is particularly noted for its captivating range of sparkling wines. Their selection includes varieties such as Chardonnay, Grüner Veltliner, Riesling, Pinot Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc, and Cabernet Sauvignon. This year, two new products will be introduced during Austrian Sekt Day on October 22nd: a Pinot Blanc or Weißburgunder (aged 100 months on lees) and a Pinot Noir Blanc de Noirs.
The Wachau Valley is famous for its steep, terraced vineyards and its Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. These wines are known for their purity, high acidity, and ability to age gracefully. Weingut Rudi Pichler made a great impression with its Grüner Veltliner Ried Hochrain, showcasing a wine that is fresh, mineral, acidic, and complex. The region's unique climatic conditions and the influence of the Danube River contribute to the distinctive character of its wines.
Kremstal is another notable wine region in Lower Austria, known for producing high-quality Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Weingut Anton Zöhrer's Ried Gebling Kremstal DAC Grüner Veltliner stands out for its depth and expressive nature. Additionally, Petra Unger’s Ried Gaisberg 1ÖTW Kremstal Reserve Riesling offers a remarkable example of complexity and elegance, further establishing Kremstal as a region of excellence.
Burgenland is Austria’s warmest wine region, producing robust red wines and sweet white wines. Blaufränkisch, the second most widely-planted red grape in Austria, thrives here, producing wines with deep color, tannic structure, and rich flavors. Weingut Silvia Heinrich offers an amazing range of Blaufränkisch wines, with notably Ried Goldberg Reserve 2019 on top.
Styria, in southeastern Austria, is famed for its aromatic white wines, particularly Sauvignon Blanc. The region's hilly landscape and varied microclimates contribute to the vibrant acidity and expressive aromatics of its wines. Among the triumphs at the 15th Sauvignon Selection by CMB2024, the Muster.Gamlitz Sauvignon Blanc Grubthal 2020 from Southern Styria stood out, capturing the attention with its elegance and length. This exceptional wine delighted with its vibrant pineapple notes, showcasing the region's viticultural excellence.
Emerging Grape Varieties
Grüner Veltliner is Austria’s most-planted grape variety, accounting for nearly a third (32.4%) of total plantings. However, Roter Veltliner, with its distinctive pink skin, is gaining attention. Likely originating in Valtellina, Lombardy, its heartland is now in Wagram, northeast of Vienna. Although Roter Veltliner represents just 0.4% of Austria’s vine plantings, its ability to express terroir makes it a promising candidate for single vineyard classification.
Blaufränkisch and Climate Adaptation
Blaufränkisch, Austria’s second most widely-planted red grape, is known for its dark, tannin-rich skins, producing inky wines. However, the trend is moving towards lighter, fresher wines. Raimonds Tomsons, the 2023 ASI Best Sommelier of the World, praised Blaufränkisch, saying, “I believe that Blaufränkisch is, along with classics like Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir, and Syrah, one of the greatest red varieties in the world.”
Blaufränkisch is drought-resistant, making it well-suited to the changing climate. As temperatures rise and some grapes like Merlot struggle, more winemakers may turn to Blaufränkisch, provided it is handled carefully in the cellar to produce elegant wines that appeal to modern critics.
Conclusion
VieVinum 2024 highlighted Austria's vibrant and evolving wine industry. By embracing new classification systems and exploring diverse grape varieties, Austrian wine producers are well-positioned to meet future challenges while maintaining their rich heritage. The fair underscored Austria's commitment to quality and innovation, reinforcing its place on the global wine stage.