In recent decades, Austria has revealed itself (again) as a global quality wine house, starting with early-1990s. Following the national wine scandal in the 1980s, the wine industry has taken several strategic initiatives: limiting bulk wine business with German importers, focus on denominations and good-quality wines, promoting national wine identity through Vinea Wachau and Österreich Wein Marketing GmbH - Austrian Wine Marketing Board.
Another recent success of Austrian wine was the internationalization of the "Austrian wine flagship" - Grüner Veltliner. A boost came in 2002, when a wine tasting was organized by Jancis Robinson (JancisRobinson.com) and Tim Atkin. It marked a new era for Austrian wine industry thanks to the "Grüner Veltliner" - the "Austria's most significant white wine variety".
In this article we will try to explore and find out more about Grüner Weltliner, its origins, characteristics, regions, and fame.
Origins and geographic presence
The grape's origins are not clear, but seemingly it descends from Lower Austria (Niederösterreich), being a natural offspring of Traminer and Sankt Georgien. In the past, Grüner Veltliner was named also Weissgipfler or Grünmuskateller, but his name is misleading as it doesn't form the same grape family with Roter Veltliner and Früher Roter Veltliner.
In Austria, the vineyards of Grüner Veltliner is of 14 423 hectares or 31.0% of total area, having the dominant position in the country. The variety is widely present in along Danube River in Upper Austria - Niederösterreich (Wachau DAC, Kremstal DAC, Kamptal DAC, Weinviertel DAC, Traisental DAC, Wagram DAC - formerly Donauland) and sporadically in northern Burgenland. DAC stands for Districtus Austriae Controllatus (Latin for Controlled District of Austria), and, is a classification for regionally typical quality wine (legal category "Qualitätswein") in Austria.
Outside Austria, the grape could be found in Slovakia, Czechia, Hungary, Slovenia, and to a lesser extend in northern Italy (South Tirol), Australia, New Zealand, USA and Canada.
Wine styles and aromas
According to Österreich Wein Marketing GmbH - Austrian Wine Marketing Board, Grüner Veltliner "delivers all quality levels - from light, more acidic wines, through to Prädikatswein with a high degree of ripeness. Quality is highly dependent upon the vineyard and the yield. Winegrowers strive for spicy, peppery wines, or wines with notes of stone fruit".
JancisRobinson.com described the Grüner Veltliner wine as "capable of producing very fine, full-bodied wines well capable of ageing.[...] But in general Grüner Veltliner produces very refreshing, tangy wines with a certain white pepper, dill, even gherkin character."
In a note of Domäne Wachau "Grüner Veltliner can reflect its terroir with transparent, straightforward precision. It can produce an outstanding light and slender style, but also serves as an elegant, medium-bodied food companion and delivers wines in the powerful, concentrated reserve category, which enjoy high worldwide recognition".
Indeed, Grüner Veltliner has much to offer due to its universality but depending of the wine growing region, expressing the origin and its features.
If the wine is lighter, more balanced, fresher, full of minerality and citrus fruits – is typical of Weinviertel, regularly with a note of pepper. Locals call it "Pfefferl" or "little pepper", due to the rotundone, the aroma compound of black pepper, which you can find in the Syrah (Shiraz) wine too. Local producers use the Grüner as a base for sparkling wines (Sekt), which is a common practice throughout Lower Austria region.
If the wine is more complex, intense, a stronger character, elegant and salty, then it comes from one of renowned regions of Wachau, Kremstal and Kamptal. The ones of the Wachau are considered to be some of the finest, versatile and exotic, having similarities with white Burgundy, having an authentic, rich and full body style, with vivacious acidity and refreshing aromas.
Generally, the Grüner wines are rich, structured and easy-drinking style. It could be done in different styles - as a young wine for drinking in the Viennese bars or restaurants serving new wines (Heuriger), as a sparkling wine or capable of aging.
Pairing
Due to its universality, Grüner Veltliner is "at home" in any role when it comes to pairing, but do not forget that it is a traditional Austrian wine and it loves the Austrian cuisine. It could be a starter with fresh salad, cheese, bacon or ham, but it also pairs greatly with sausages, grills (especially chicken) or Viennese schnitzel. Besides that Grüner is a perfect pair for fish, in any form, and Asian dishes.
Instead of conclusion
If I were to paraphrase Freddy Bulmer in his The ultimate guide to Austrian wine, then I would say that Grüner Veltiner "is considered by many to be one of the best-kept wine secrets in Europe". It is a unique, fresh, universal, structured and undervalued wine with high potential and a lot to offer to wine lovers!