These days I was listening to Wines of Romania podcast hosted by Marinela Ardelean with Crina Dulute Florea (co-owner of Domeniile Averesti Romania (Averesti Estates)), and then I heard a name that immediately captivated my attention.
It was "Zghihara", somehow strange and difficult to pronounce it, but familiar to me due to my Romanian background.
Who knows what "Zghihara" means? Or, who knows what "Zghihui" means?
I will start with the second term, though. It is an old but still used word in Moldova (Republic of Moldova) and eastern Romania (Moldova region), and it expresses a state of "agility", "liveliness", "animated", "snappy", "loudy".
And one can say that this describes the Zghihara wines as well...
Zghihara, a rare white grape variety cultivated in some parts of eastern Romania, is a pleasant, fresh and brisk white wine, though little known worldwide. Hence, I would like to invite you to explore it together.
Origins and geographic presence
The Zghihara grape is an authentic Romanian grape, being cultivated in Vaslui county since 14-15th centuries. First documentation of Zghihara came in 1714-1716, when, at the request of the Royal Prussian Academy of Sciences in Berlin, Dimitrie Cantemir (politician, historian, scientist) wrote the first geographical, ethnographic, economic synopsis of Moldova under the title "Descriptio Moldaviae". In this encyclopedia, Zghihara was mentioned as the second best wine (and grape) in Moldova after Cotnari.
The modern development of Zghihara started with the last quarter of 19th century, when the grape was revived by French oenologist René Faure at Domeniile Averesti (Averesti Estates).
Nowadays, the vineyards area assigned to Zghihara is in the range of 85-90 hectares, with around 40 ha at Domeniile Averesti only. As there is a growing interest in this noble wine, especially on domestic market, we might foresee some investments in new plantations in the next years.
Wine styles and aromas
At Decanter Tasting of Zghihara, sylvia wu concluded that it has a "ripe peach and fresh pear on the nose with a flinty edge. Saline and peppery on the palate, with crunchy green apple fruits and lime zest acidity. Grapefruit peel and chalk lead to a clean finish".
Indeed, Zghihara it is a pleasant, light, refreshing wine, with a taste of green apple and lime. Brisk and mineral aftertaste, it might appear less strong and character, but ingenuous, unique and easy-drinking.
The Zghihara variety is suitable as a basis for sparkling wines.
Pairing
Generally, Zghihara is a good digestive. It pairs well with seafood - mussels or shrimp, along with a grilled trout. It is also an excellent accompaniment to red and white meat, chicken dishes in aromatic sauces – Indian curries or with soft cheeses such as goat cheese or brie.
Instead of conclusion
For me, Zghihara is an excellent, refreshing and aromatic wine, balanced and sophisticated, with notes of green apple. It requires time to fully reveal its palate; exceptionally contemplative, it demands time to be truly understood.
Zghihara has a special and unique wine style, boasting Romanian wine authenticity and originality. The wine reflects the classic expression of tradition, nobility and elegance of Vaslui-Husi terroir - a jewel of Romanian oenology!