Pinot Noir, one of the world’s most revered grape varieties, has its origins in the renowned Burgundy region of France.
Known for its elegance, complexity, and ability to express the terroir, Pinot Noir has long been associated with the rolling hills and cool climate of Burgundy.
However, this classic variety is finding new roots and growing in prominence in Austria, where it is beginning to thrive despite the challenges it presents.
The Emergence of Austrian Pinot Noir
In Austria, the cultivation of Pinot Noir is still relatively new, yet the results are promising. Over the past few decades, Austrian winegrowers have increasingly turned their attention to this delicate variety, exploring its potential across various wine-growing regions. Although the overall area dedicated to Pinot Noir in Austria remains modest, with just under 600 hectares (ha) under vine, the quality of the wines produced is on the rise. Austrian winemakers are demonstrating that they can produce Pinot Noir of notable quality, with wines that are beginning to attract attention both locally and internationally.
Ideal Conditions for Growing Pinot Noir
Pinot Noir is notoriously difficult to cultivate. The grape thrives in specific conditions: it requires an early-season vineyard with warm soils that allow for deep rooting and a steady supply of water. In Austria, growers have found success in regions where these conditions can be met, although the variety remains highly susceptible to diseases such as botrytis and chlorosis. These challenges make Pinot Noir a demanding grape to work with, requiring careful vineyard management and attention to detail throughout the growing season.
The Geography of Austrian Pinot Noir
The cultivation of Pinot Noir in Austria is spread across several wine-growing regions, with each offering unique terroirs that contribute to the diversity of styles emerging from the country. The most significant regions include Niederösterreich and Burgenland, with smaller plantings in Steiermark, Wien, and Bergland.
- Niederösterreich: This region is the largest contributor to Austria’s Pinot Noir production, with 302.53 hectares (ha) under vine, representing 50.49% of the total area. Within Niederösterreich, specific sub-regions such as the Thermenregion (110.84 ha), Weinviertel (75.22 ha), Kamptal (43.95 ha), Wagram (24.71 ha) and Kremstal (21.40 ha) are notable for their Pinot Noir plantings. These areas offer the warm soils and early-season conditions that Pinot Noir demands.
- Burgenland: With 239.48 ha dedicated to Pinot Noir, Burgenland accounts for nearly 40% of Austria’s total Pinot Noir vineyard area. The Leithaberg and Neusiedlersee wine-growing regions are particularly significant, although their vineyards overlap by almost 160 ha, according to Austrian Wine Law. This overlap means the actual area under vine in Burgenland is larger than the official figures suggest.
- Steiermark, Wien, and Bergland: These regions contribute smaller amounts to the overall Pinot Noir production in Austria, with Steiermark covering 22.01 ha, Wien 19.00 ha, and Bergland 16.11 ha. Despite the limited vineyard areas, these regions are producing some intriguing examples of Pinot Noir that showcase the variety’s adaptability to different terroirs.
Wine Tasting
We've chosen two vintages for this wine tasting to showcase the distinctive expressions of Pinot Noir from two renowned Austrian winemakers. Weingut Petra Unger’s 2021 Pinot Noir exemplifies the elegance and finesse typical of the Kremstal region, known for its balanced acidity and nuanced red berry flavors. In contrast, Weingut Leth's 2022 Pinot Noir from the Wagram region offers a fresher, more vibrant profile, highlighting the unique terroir of this area with its rich fruitiness and subtle spice.
- Weingut Petra Unger, Pinot Noir Furth 2021: A captivating dark ruby color. On the nose, the wine offers a fruity bouquet featuring dark berries from the forest and ripe plums, creating a complex and inviting aromatic profile. On the palate, the wine is fruit-forward, with an abundance of dark berry and plum flavors. These are complemented by fine roast aromas that add a layer of complexity. The oak influence is tender and well-integrated, enhancing the wine's structure without overpowering the fruit. The palate is rounded with soft tannins, making it elegant and well-balanced.
- Weingut Leth, Pinot Noir 2022: A distinctive, light brick-red color with subtle orange reflections. The bouquet is characterized by aromas of red berries such as raspberry and strawberry, complemented by delicate hints of hibiscus and a touch of cherry. A subtle earthiness, reminiscent of forest floor, adds depth, while the finish hints at roasted chestnuts. On the palate, Pinot Noir offers a beautifully balanced acidity with a mineral undertone, delivering elegance and finesse throughout. Despite its lightness, the wine has a satisfying length, leaving a lasting impression.
The Promise of Austrian Pinot Noir
As Austrian winemakers continue to refine their techniques and adapt to the challenges of growing Pinot Noir, the quality of the wines is steadily improving. When grown in the right location and allowed to ripen fully, Pinot Noir can be transformed into high-quality wines that reflect the skill of the winegrower and the characteristics of the local terroir.
Austrian Pinot Noir typically exhibits a pale color and subtle aroma, with notes of red berries such as strawberry, raspberry, and sour cherry, often accompanied by hints of forest soil and dried plums. These wines offer a unique expression of Pinot Noir, distinct from the more robust styles found in other parts of the world.
Conclusion
While still in its infancy, the cultivation of Pinot Noir in Austria is showing great promise. The variety is gaining importance across the country, with more regions beginning to explore its potential. As Austrian winemakers continue to experiment and refine their approach, the future of Austrian Pinot Noir looks bright, with the potential to add a new chapter to the storied history of this classic grape variety.
Source: Austrian Wine Marketing