In this article I would like to bring to the table, the "ancestor of vines" from the "home of wine-making"!
The wine lovers would identify it immediately, as it relates to Saperavi, the great red wine grape variety from Georgia (former Soviet Union country).
JancisRobinson.com mentioned that Saperavi are "Georgia's native vine producing deep-colored wines (thanks to the pink flesh of its grapes) with marked acidity and, usually, tannin".
Origins and geographic presence
The "birth" of Saperavi is still discussed and assessed, even though the common agreement is that the grape was cultivated in Georgia since millennia ("old as Georgia"), but the origin is attributed to the Kakheti region in the southeastern part of the country.
In 17-18th centuries the grape was country-spread and started to expand in neighboring regions, far beyond Caucasus. In the last century, the grape growing was initiated in the US, Australia, Kazakhstan and other regions.
Currently, the global vineyards area would be around 6500 hectares, with 73% being in Georgia. Other significant areas are: Russia (716 ha), Moldova (573 ha), Kazakhstan (428 ha), but also in New Zealand, Ukraine, Azerbaijan, Armenia, Romania and Bulgaria.
Wine styles and aromas
So what makes Saperavi wine special and original?
Saperavi is a teinturier grape, with dark pink or red flesh and dark skins, giving to the wine an excellent ruby and deep color. Being a late-ripening grape, it flourishes in cooler climate areas, being resistant to the cold winters and droughts, an opportunity for winegrowers at high altitude locations.
Generally, the Saperavi grape produces mostly dry, full-body red wine, with an excellent ruby and deep color. Though, some Georgian wineries can produce a range of wine styles from sweet and semi-sweet to dry, fortified and sparkling wines.
The wine taste is a fascinating and balance combination of high tannins, acidity and sugar with a complex aromas of berries (raspberries, wild berries) and dried fruits (plums, raisins) together with notes of chocolate, mushrooms and licorice. The aftertaste is elegant and prolonged given the tannic structure.
Given its dark and intense color and acidity, Saperavi is a perfect choice for blending. Due to its high acidity, Saperavi grape is suitable for aging wine, either in oak barrels but also in "traditional" clay vessels, called "qvevri", capable of producing high-quality wines, up to 40 or even 50 years...
Pairing
As a Georgian wine, Saperavi is a perfect fit for Georgian cuisine: aged cheese, mtsvadi grilled (traditional Georgian barbecue) on skewers, steak, and other meat products. Also, it pairs greatly with roasted lamb and pork skewers, ripe cheese, ragout and oyster mushrooms. The wine can pair with desserts and fruits as well.
International Awards
At 2023 London Competitions, the Georgian Saperavi wines have received several awards, to enumerate few: Shumi Winery (Gold), Badagoni (Silver), Mukuzani Winery LLC (Silver), RTVELISI LLC (Silver).
At international wine tasting, MUNDUS VINI 2023, Chelti Winery • მეღვინეობა ჩელთი's Saperavi 2015 aged in Oak and Saperavi of Qvevri 2016 gained Gold medals.
Purcari Wineries from Moldova has made from Saperavi one of its stars, as 100% pure wine but also in blends. In 2023, the winery received the gold medal for its Academia Purcari Saperavi 2020 and Purcari 1827 Saperavi 2021 wines, an excellent and unique mixture of Moldova's Stefan Voda PGI terroir and Georgian character of Saperavi grape.
Instead of Conclusion
Overall, Saperavi variety remains unknown and undervalued worldwide, and it needs time to increase the awareness of its high-quality red wine by educating both, professionals and consumers.
For me, Saperavi wine is full of character, complexity and originality. Finest and natural it is the best expression of Georgian wine industry. It has proved resilience in a world of well-known red grape varieties and passed its terroir's authenticity through decades and generations, combining traditions and innovations.