Neuburger is an Austrian grape variety, which can deliver an excellent wine quality, but it is still less-known compare to other Austrian grapes.
There are stories and legends from 18th-19th centuries mentioning the vineyards in the Wachau region of Austria, or wine trade between Austria and Germany. The fact is that the grape origins are unclear, some researchers are in fond of Wachau, others to other wine regions of Lower Austria (Niederösterreich) or Burgenland. In Arnsdorf, in the Wachau region, there is a memorial which commemorates the origin of this autochthonous variety...
What is certain, the grape has Austrian origins and I invite you to discover it together.
Origins and geographic presence
The origins of Neuburger are attributed to Wachau region in Lower Austria, around Spitz and Spitzer Graben. Recent DNA analyzes show that the grape is a native Austrian variety, presumably a cross between the two Austrian grape varieties Roter Veltliner and Silvaner.
From around 1800, the grape was increasingly planted from Wachau (western Lower Austria) to Klosterneuburg/Korneuburg (eastern Lower Austria) and Burgenland. In the same period there was a vine "export" throughout Habsburg Empire, that's why we can find nowadays the Neuburger vineyards in Czechia, Slovakia or Romania.
Unfortunately, in the last 30-40 years, the area planted with Neuburger in Austria was gradually diminished in favor of more known Grüner Veltliner and Riesling. Currently, Österreich Wein Marketing GmbH - Austrian Wine Marketing Board estimates that Neuburger is a significant grape variety in the Wachau, the Thermenregion and Leithaberg. It is particularly found in drier areas of the wine regions of Thermenregion. In the Leithaberg DAC, the Neuburger grape is permitted to be blended with other white varieties.
Even though, some modest estimations show a cultivated are of ~1030 hectares in Central and Eastern Europe, split as follows: Austria (650 ha), Czechia (300 ha), Romania (70 ha) and Slovakia (10 ha).
Wine styles and aromas
The Neuburger grape delivers mostly dense, full-bodied yet mild wines with a subtle flavor. The young wines' aroma is intense and floral, while that of older is rich and more nutty.
The variety is suitable for the production of quality and premium wines. The grape produces heavy, less acidic wines similar to Burgundy wines. It can range from dry wine to sweet and dessert wine, having high potential for aging.
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Weingut Franz Hirtzberger Neuburger Wachau DAC Smaragd 2023:
Enticing and refined, with subtle herbal aromas that set the stage for a fragrant array of ripe yellow pear and honeydew melon. Light floral notes of honey blossom intermingle with a touch of candied orange zest, adding layers of complexity. The wine is both juicy and elegant, with a smooth entry that reveals fine white apple flavors and a balanced, finesse-rich acidity. A mineral-salty finish underscores its vibrant character and adds a unique complexity to this rare variety.
- Domäne Wachau Neuburger Spitzer Graben Federspiel 2023: A complex aromatic profile on the nose, revealing enticing notes of crushed red apple, delicate hints of citrus blossom, and nutty undertones of walnut and almond, complemented by fine spices. On the palate, it is powerful and classy, showcasing juicy fruit flavors balanced by a refreshing structure.
Pairing
Dry white wine of Neuberger is a versatile food companion, enhancing a hearty Austrian Brettljause or richer dishes like cooked shoulder jerk with hash browns and chive sauce, as well as roast chicken. It also complements Mediterranean flavors, such as oven-baked sea bream, and adds a sophisticated touch to Far Eastern dishes like Wagyu Carpaccio on sesame cream with basil.
Instead of conclusion
For me, the Neuburger wine is a splendid and elegant white wine, with a fine color and delicious aroma, inviting for a discussion and has a lot of stories to tell. The wine is still undervalued, but complex and aromatic, balanced mineral, fresh, with notes of stone fruit, apple and citrus.
Enjoy it responsibly!