In the picturesque vineyards of Romania (and Moldova), one grape variety stands out, commanding attention with its unique character and indigenous charm - Feteasca Albă.
The grape, with roots deeply embedded in the regional viticulture, has been nurtured by generations of passionate winemakers, each drop of wine telling a story of tradition, terroir, and the spirit of Romania.
Origins and geographic presence
Feteasca Albă is an ancient varietal, originating from Transilvania (Romania) and is widely used in Romania but also other parts of Eastern and Central Europe. From Romanian language it means "White Maiden" and it is one of emblematic local grape of Romania and Moldova.
Wines of Romania mentions that Feteasca Albă is a parent for "Feteasca Regala, Rosina and Zefir" - varieties developed by specialists in Romania and Hungary. It has several names, depending the country of cultivation. In Romania or Moldova it is known as Fetișoară, Păsărească Albă, Poamă Fetei, Poamă Fetei Albă, Văratic/ Băratic; in Hungary as Janiszölö, Leányka, Leányka Szölö, Mädchentraube, in Ukraine - Fetiaska Belii, Fetyaska Alba; in Bulgaria - Fetyaska Byala; in Czechia - Divci Hrozen; in Slovakia - Dievcie Hrozno, and in Germany/Austria - Weiße Mädchentraube (wein.plus).
The three main country growers of Feteasca Albă are Romania (12,034 ha), Ukraine (more than 1600 ha) and Moldova (651 ha).
Wine styles and aromas
Wines of Feteasca Albă develop mainly dry fresh and aromatic white wines, with notes of citrus, herbs but also tropical fruits. The grape can provide also some excellent semi-dry, semi-sweet and sparkling wines.
We have asked Andrei Popa, Romanian sommelier and the owner of Dor de Vin, about few insights on Feteasca Albă, weaving a story of vineyards, terroir, and the complexities of each sip.
- Dagon Wine - Clearstone 2019: cultivated in a 40 years old vineyard from Romanian Dealu Mare; on the nose, herbs, peach, apricot, lemon, apple, with notes of honey; on the palate, complex and full-bodied wine, high acidity, with long vanilla aftertaste.
- Crama Valea Ascunsa - Feteasca Albă 2021; a dry white wine from CMD Lechinta (Transilvania); on the nose, a pleasant bouquet of spring flowers, with notes of pears, peach, grapefruit, lemon and dried fruits; on the palate, soft-to-medium bodied wine and high acidity, with medium aftertaste.
- Gramma Wines - Feteasca Albă 2021: a dry white wine from DOC Iasi (Romania); on the nose, wild herbs, ripe apricots, peach and yellow apples; on the palate, soft-bodied wine with moderate acidity and long and pleasant aftertaste.
- I'M WINERY - Amurg Brut Sparkling Wine (Moldova): very generous on the note, wild herbs and flowers, with notes of apples, pears and quince; on the palate, easy-bodied with high acidity and long aftertaste.
In addition to this marvelous wine range, we would like to add also the Feteasca Albă 2022 vintage from Crama Mircesti (Moldova): on the nose, balanced initially, as it need time to open to an intense note of wild herbs and citrus; on the palate, soft-bodied, balanced on alcohol, mineral and acidity, with pleasant velvety aftertaste. This wine has received the gold award at VINARIUM International Wine Contest 2023.
Pairing
Feteasca Albă pairs greatly with any seafood (especially grilled or baked fish), pasta, chicken meat and grilled legumes. Also, it fits fine with various cheeses and fresh salads.
Instead of conclusion
In every glass of Feteasca Albă, there is a taste of Romania and Moldova - both countries where tradition and innovation dance harmoniously, where the grapevine weaves a story that transcends generations.
I think Feteasca Albă is still in the uncharted territories of grape varietals waiting to be discovered and appreciated, even though some incipient signs are seen and heard from various representatives of wine industry. Each bottle becomes a legacy to the winemakers' dedication, the grape uniqueness, and the rich knowledge of Romania and Moldova's wine-making heritage.
Enjoy it responsibly!