Feteasca Regală ("Royal Maiden")

Feteasca Regală ("Royal Maiden")

Feteasca Regală is one of three local varieties from Romania (and Moldova) called "Feteasca", the other two being Feteasca Neagră and Feteasca Albă. "Regală" means from Romanian "Royal". As JancisRobinson.com describes it, is the "most widely planted variety in Romania, and the most common of the Fetească varieties".

Where this royal grape came from, and what is the wine produced from? Let's explore it further.

Origins and geographic presence

Feteasca Regală is one of the most cultivated white grapes in Romania and Moldova, being discovered in the early 1920s by a gardener Gaspari in the location of Daneș near Sighișoara (in Mureș County, Romania). With Sighișoara there is another event linked with - several years between 1462 and 1475 there was living Vlad Ţepeș or Vlad the Impaler, former ruler of Walachia and the prototype of Bram Stocker's Dracula.

The origin of Feteasca Regala comes from the crossbreeding of Feteasca Alba and Grasa de Cotnari, other Romanian autochtonus grapes. To this white grape were given many names depending on the country of cultivation. In Romania it was know also as Dănășană, Dănășeană, Dăneșană, Dánosi Leányka, Dunășană, Galbenă de Ardeal, Galbenă di Ardeal. Pesecká Leánka is known in Slovakia, Erdei Sarga in Hungary, and Danesdörfer Königsast or Dünesdörfer Königsast in Germany.

Currently, the grape is cultivated mostly in Romania, with vineyards of close to 12700 hectares. In Moldova, the variety is grown on more than 350 ha. There are still some areas in Hungary, Slovakia and Germany.

In Romania, the variety is mostly spread in Transilvania and Dealu Mare regions, even though in other wine regions could be found as well. It fits greatly to the continental climate of the region, as has proven resilient to extreme temperatures of summer and winter.

Wine styles and aromas

Generally, Feteasca Regală provides medium-to-full body wines, complex and expressive, with intense aromas (floral, apple, pear, citrus), having potential for longevity.

Andrei Popa (Romanian Sommelier and Dor de Vin owner) has nicely shared insights of few interesting Feteasca Regală wines from Romania, as follows:

  • Catleya Wines - Epopée White 2021: A blend of Feteasca Regală and Feteasca Albă, a dry white wine from DOC-CMD Mehedinti; on the nose, great floral aromas, with notes of roses, ripe pears, honey and nuts; on the palate, medium-bodied wine, with higher acidity and taste of citrus and long aftertaste.
Few wine producers have experimented with the grape, and the outcome is a marvelous sparkling wine, as Andrei Popa continued his story with Crama Bauer:
  • Crama Bauer - J.O.H.A.N.N.A Sparkling Extra-Brut: 70 months on the lees; on the nose, herbs and a lot of fruits (green apple and pears, peach, grapefruit, lime); on the palate, medium-bodied wine with high acidity and long aftertaste.

In Moldova, the predominant region of Feteasca Regală is Codru PGI, where it gets more mineral and fresh notes. The outcomes are excellent and complex white wines, depending if varietal on in blends. Below few splendid examples.

  • FAUTOR WINERY - Feteasca Regală 2022: A dry white wine from Valul lui Traian PGI; on the nose, pleasant notes of peach, yellow apple and pears, tropical herbs; on the palate, rich, complex, notes of minerals, and long aftertaste. Silver medal of Sommeliers Choice Awards 2022!
  • Crama Mircesti - Feteasca Regală 2022: Produced from Codru PGI grapes; on the nose, an explosion of aromas, ripe pears, apple, notes of tropical fruits and herbs; on the palate, light and well-balanced wine between alcohol, acidity and mineral, with elegant aftertaste. Gold award at VINARIUM International Wine Contest 2021 and 2022!

Pairing

Feteasca Regală pairs greatly with seafood dishes (mainly fish but not only), vegetables, pasta, chicken meat (grilled or coronation) and various cheeses.

Instead of conclusion

Feteasca Regală is a rich and eloquent white wine with unique structure; has a strong character and is continuously inviting to endless conversations and taste explorations. Its popularity increases beyond the wine "connaisseurs" due to its complexity and nature.

Personally, I expect in the coming years to see new "products" on the market, 100% varietal or blends, and not only from Romania and Moldova, so keep an eye on.

Enjoy it responsibly!

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