Wine-Searcher: The World's Most Wanted Malbecs

The grape might have its roots in France, but its crowning glory lies in Argentina.

It could be argued that Malbec is the black sheep of France.

Living largely in exile, with its last significant stronghold in Cahors, along with some minor settlements in Bordeaux, Malbec has built a life in the New World and nowhere more successfully than the oasis vineyards of Mendoza nestled against the flank of the Andes.

It may be asked why this immigrant grape has done so well in Argentina as opposed to its native country, and the answer to that is two-fold – possibly three. Firstly, is the climate – Argentina, particularly Mendoza, is consistently warm and sunny – perfect for Malbec.

Secondly is the freedom from a rather hampering reputation – as James Lawrence details in his recent piece – left over from 19th- and 20th-Century Bordeaux.

The 19th Century witnessed the devastation brought on by phylloxera that destroyed much of the existing Malbec, while the 20th century saw replantings of high-yielding Malbec clones that produced wines of limp character, crashing its reputation.

So the New World beckoned and this year's most wanted Malbec reflects the gusto with which Argentina – and, in particular, Mendoza – took up the mantle when it came to re-homing France's unwanted grape, with one producer very much leading the charge.

The World's Most Wanted Malbecs on Wine-Searcher:

That producer would be Catena Zapata which both leads – and subsequently dominates – the pack with a succession of Mendoza Malbecs.

The estate was founded in 1902 with Nicola Catena planting the first Malbec vineyard and remains in the family to this day, with his grandson Nicolás Catena Zapata at the helm alongside his daughter. Inspired by the fine wines of both California and France, it was Nicolás' pioneering ways that put Mendoza Malbec on the map.

Topping this list is their Argentino which is a blend of Catena Zapata's historic Malbec vineyards, Adrianna and Nicasia.

With an aggregated score of 93 points, the 2019 vintage was described by Wine-Searcher's resident Master of Wine, David Allen as having "ripe concentrated mulberry and red-plum fruit surround a dark-fruit and black-liquorice core." At a cool $113 – compared to the many Bordeaux and Burgundy greats – it's a veritable steal.

Second is their Angélica Zapata Alta. Named after the family matriarch, the grapes are sourced from the high altitude Angélica Sur vineyard with the wine aging in French oak barrels for 18 months. The resulting wine has an impressive aggregated score of 91 points, all for $49.

Number three is another Catena Zapata superstar, this time the Adrianna Vineyard River Stones Malbec – now known simply as the River Malbec.

The Adrianna vineyard was originally the site of an ancient riverbed, and the old river stones serve to provide both excellent drainage as well as temperature control, keeping the vines warm at night and cool during the day.

The 2016 vintage was described by critic Patricio Tapia for Descorchados as "extremely fruity and rich in acidity and freshness. A skeleton of tannins like a tense, steel network. A mountain wine." With a grand aggregate of 95 points, it's clear others agree, all for $188.

In fourth place is another Catena Zapata, this time their Catena. Produced by Laura Catena and chief winemaker Alejandro Vigil, the Malbec is specially designed for both easy drinking and early consumption, while still being capable of long-term aging. The 2018 vintage was described by Wine Enthusiast as having "herbal plum and currant flavors backed by a mild note of oaky clove." Overall, the wine holds an aggregated critic score of 89 points, however, it's also hugely affordable coming in at a very reasonable $20.

Number five finally sees a break from Catena Zapeta, or does it? El Enemigo may not be explicitly Catena Zapata but the estate's fingerprints can be found all over it as the project is a joint venture between Adrianna Catena – the youngest daughter of Nicolás Catena – and the aforementioned Alejandro Vigil.

With an aggregated critic score of 91 points, the El Enemigo has been very well received and the 2021 was described by Patricio Tapia as having "spicy notes, aromas of ripe red fruits, and herbal and floral tones that are classic in that place at the foot of the Andes". All, for an average price of $26.

Number six is the Catena Alta Malbec which boasts an aggregated score of 92 points all for a very reasonable $51, while lucky number seven is, at long last, a break from the Catena Zapeta crew.

Viña Cobos was founded in 1988 by Paul Hobbs who fell in love with Mendoza and recognized the potential of Malbec in the region and, in 1999, he released the inaugural vintage of Cobos Malbec to rapturous praise – currently the wine holds an aggregated critic score of 94 points. Raffaele Vecchione from WinesCritic.com described the 2018 as being "absolutely profound … showing notes of lavender, wild violets, geraniums, flowering linden, white chocolate, sandalwood and medicinal herbs". Profundity, however, comes at a cost: $244 to be precise.

Number eight sees a return to the Catena Zapata stables with the Nicasia Vineyard Malbec. The vineyard lies in Altamira – the southern tail of the Uco Valley in Mendoza – and the resulting wine has become emblematic of its region. Wine Enthusiast described the 2018 vintage as "aromatic, opening with thyme, plum and dark chocolate. This wine presents the character of the region." Other critics agree with the wine garnering a score of 93 points, all for a not completely unreasonable price tag of $90.

In ninth place is another of Catena Zapata's top wines, this time their Vineyard Mundus Bacillus Terrae from the Adrianna Vineyard, which sits at around 5000 feet. The vineyard is, again, named after one of Nicolás Catena's daughters and the wine name itself pays tribute to all the micro-organisms that help give richness to the earth.

As Catena Zapata states, the ancient marine-limestone soils are "rich in rhizobacteria, the microorganisms that help vine roots withstand stress and absorb nutrients. Thus, the name 'mundus bacillus terrae' or 'elegant microbes of the earth'." Elegant indeed, and the critics agree, giving it a stunning score of 96 points, however, at $259, elegance comes with a price.

Rounding up our most wanted Malbecs is a wine from acclaimed Bordeaux enologist, Michel Rolland, the Yacochuya by San Pedro de Yacochuya. Produced from vineyards in Cafayate, a part of the wider Calchaqui Valley, the wine has a solid aggregated score of 90 points.

The 2011 vintage was described by Wine Enthusiast as "full and thick in feel. Saturated blackberry, chocolate, fig and raisin flavors are hot and intense." A rich wine by all accounts but one that gives a lot of bang for its buck, considering it comes in at an average $43.

It is clear when it comes to the world's most wanted Malbec, one country has embraced this lonely French exile like no other. For a great quality age-worthy red that costs a fraction of the price of most Burgundy and Bordeaux, look no further than Argentina and its enthusiastic flag-bearer, Bodega Catena Zapata.

Source: Wine-Searcher