The 2024 Champagne Harvest: A Year of Erratic Weather and Uncertain Yields

The 2024 harvest in France's Champagne region has been a stark contrast to the abundant production seen in the previous year.

Erratic weather, including persistent rain, frost, and vine diseases, has led to a small and uneven harvest across the region, raising concerns for producers and Champagne enthusiasts alike.

A Year of Challenging Weather

Since October 2023, Champagne has been inundated with rain, particularly affecting the Aube and Aisne departments, which make up key parts of the appellation. In the Aube region, which lies in the southernmost part of Champagne, rainfall had already reached the annual average by the time flowering began, only to be hit again with an equal amount of rain before harvest. Over the final ten days leading up to the harvest, nearly 100 milliliters of rain fell, soaking the harvesters and increasing the weight of grape bunches in some areas. However, this did not translate into better yields. According to producers like Etienne Sandrin, despite the increased weight of bunches, the overall quantity of grapes per bunch remained low.

Frost also delivered a severe blow. On April 22, a "black frost" swept through the Aube region, inflicting widespread damage. Michel Drappier, director of Champagne Drappier, likened the frost to a “Moscow-Paris Siberian Glacial Air Express,” devastating vineyards in the Bar-sur-Aube and Bar-Sur-Seine sub-regions. The frost, coming so late in the season, severely diminished the already struggling harvest.

Vine Diseases and Further Setbacks

The combination of heavy rains and frost created ideal conditions for mildew, a fungal disease that rapidly spread through the vineyards. Producers also faced localized hailstorms that destroyed some of the remaining grapes. A brief but intense heatwave in late August further damaged crops, causing some grapes to burn in the sudden heat.

These erratic weather events led to devastating losses. Jean-Sébastien Fleury of Champagne Fleury reported that they lost 95% of their crop due to the conditions. Rather than opening their own pressing centre, Fleury decided to share facilities with Champagne Robert Barbichon, a reflection of just how severe the situation has become. In some regions, losses reached up to 50%, and in certain areas, outbreaks of grey rot emerged. Although cooler weather helped control the spread of grey rot in most of the appellation, the Sézannais area in the south was particularly hard-hit. There, excessive rain accelerated the development of rot and delayed the ripening of the Chardonnay variety, which already struggled to reach its ideal levels of ripeness.

Struggling to Meet Ripening Targets

The Champagne Committee (CIVC) set specific ripening targets for the 2024 harvest: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir were to reach 10.5% potential alcohol, while Meunier needed to achieve 10%. However, due to the slow ripening rates caused by adverse weather, Sébastien Dubuisson, CIVC’s director of quality and sustainable development, adjusted these targets to between 9.5% and 10%. Even with the lowered expectations, achieving these levels proved difficult in many parts of the region.

This has raised concerns about the overall quality of the 2024 harvest. Despite efforts to make adjustments, many of the vines are unlikely to reach the desired alcohol levels, especially in the hardest-hit areas. This could have a significant impact on the quality of Champagne produced from this year’s grapes.

The Role of Reserves and Quality Concerns

Another factor complicating the situation is the individual reserve (RI) system, which allows Champagne producers to supplement production during years of low yield by drawing from reserves. In 2023, the RI was raised to 10,000 kg/ha, but due to rot affecting that year’s harvest, the quality of the reserve has been compromised. Some producers have chosen to sell lower-quality wines, leading to concerns that this reserve, now in circulation, could harm the reputation of Champagne. At a time when Champagne sales are in decline, this is particularly troubling for the industry.

A Small and Uneven Vintage

As the 2024 harvest progresses, the terms "small" and "heterogeneous" seem to best describe this year’s production. Yield predictions vary dramatically, from as little as 200 kg/ha to as much as 20,000 kg/ha, depending on the specific area and the condition of the vines. However, even the most heavily loaded vines may struggle to meet the minimum alcohol levels required for Champagne production.

Cold temperatures and persistent rain have delayed the ripening process, making it difficult for producers to achieve the quality standards that Champagne is known for. While the final product may still be acceptable in some regions, 2024 is unlikely to be remembered as a standout year for Champagne.

The Impact on the Industry

The challenges faced during the 2024 growing season will have far-reaching implications for the Champagne industry. The combination of unpredictable weather, vine diseases, and compromised reserves could lead to a difficult market for producers who rely on high-quality output to maintain the prestige and price points associated with Champagne. Additionally, the economic consequences of a smaller and lower-quality harvest may impact the region’s recovery from the struggles of recent years, including the COVID-19 pandemic and inflationary pressures.

Producers like Champagne Fleury, who are enduring losses as high as 95%, are feeling the immediate financial strain, and some may be forced to adapt their practices or partner with other producers to survive the current crisis. For wine lovers, this means that 2024 may offer fewer high-quality bottles, and the long-term impacts on the reputation of Champagne remain to be seen.

Conclusion

The 2024 Champagne harvest has been marked by erratic weather and significant losses, resulting in a small and uneven crop. The effects of constant rain, frost, vine diseases, and heatwaves have led to a challenging season for producers, with many struggling to meet quality and ripening targets. The region’s individual reserve system, combined with lower yields and compromised reserves, has raised concerns about the overall quality of this year's production. While some regions may still produce acceptable Champagne, 2024 is unlikely to be remembered as a great vintage for the renowned wine region.