The summer wine season in Italy saw a complex, "leopard-spot" pattern for wine shop sales across various cities, with some regions outperforming and others lagging behind.
A key factor affecting this uneven trend was the intense heat, with temperatures nearing 40 degrees, which dampened enthusiasm for red wines in particular. However, despite the heat and a wider market shift favoring lighter, less structured wines, premium red denominations like Barolo, Amarone della Valpolicella, Chianti Classico, and Brunello di Montalcino remained highly sought after by tourists, especially international visitors keen to bring home a part of Italy’s wine heritage. This enduring demand highlights the inextricable link between top-quality wines and their territories, such as Tuscany and Piedmont, where red wine tourism thrives.
Sales Trends Across Wine Shops in Italy
Andrea Terraneo, president of the Italian Association of Wine Shops (Vinarius), which represents over 120 wine businesses, described the season’s performance as mixed. While many regions faced lower sales, there were unexpected bright spots, with white wines performing notably well except during the hottest weeks when sparkling wines dominated. Terraneo emphasized that reds still faced challenges, yet tourists’ appetite for iconic red wines remained robust, particularly for the wines of Tuscany and Piedmont.
Rome’s Enoteca Trimani, one of the capital’s leading wine shops, noted that while sales were sustained, they lacked the surge seen in previous years. According to Francesco Trimani, the market has shifted, with customers increasingly interested in unique, lesser-known wines and more detailed storytelling behind each bottle. High-end denominations such as Barolo, Barbaresco, Chianti Classico, and Brunello di Montalcino continue to sell well. However, an international economic slowdown has tempered enthusiasm, and the once-reliable influx of high-spending tourists has waned. Sparkling wines, especially Franciacorta, Prosecco, and Champagne, remain popular, often sold by the glass as an aperitif or as a takeaway bottle.
In Legnano, Enoteca Longo reported a successful summer, aided by local events that showcased white, rosé, and sparkling wines. They have high hopes for the holiday season, with a unique focus on luxury wine and food combinations. Owner Paola Longo also raised concerns about dwindling interest among younger drinkers, who favor gin and beer over wine, attributing this shift to a broader issue of wine’s perceived elitism.
The Antica Bottega del Vino in Verona saw an "exceptional" season, supported by both strong tourism and local clientele with a deep appreciation for quality wine. Light, ready-to-drink reds like Etna Rosso and Valpolicella gained popularity over heavier styles, while the shop’s renowned Amarone selection continued to be a top seller. Luca Nicolis, who runs the establishment, also noted growing interest in special wine production methods, such as orange wines and amphora-aged varieties.
Christmas Season and Market Sentiment
With the approach of Christmas, there is a cautious optimism among Italian wine shops, tempered by concerns over the international economic climate. Wine merchants are preparing carefully, managing inventories with an eye on maintaining cash flow post-holiday season. While sales forecasts remain positive, there is no rush to invest heavily in stock.
In Naples, Enoteca Cianciulli experienced a more challenging summer, with fewer purchases by both Italian and foreign tourists. Owner Rodolfo Cianciulli attributes the downturn to economic pressures and a shrinking middle-class customer base, but he expects a stable holiday season. Premium Italian wines, including Amarone and Supertuscans, remain staples among high-end clientele, even as Champagne sales see a decline.
Similarly, Casa del Barolo in Turin focuses on high-end gifting and corporate clients, with sales of medium-priced wines from Piedmont, like Barolo and Barbaresco, and lighter reds from Trentino performing well. Christmas remains the high season, with demand for unique combinations of wine and gourmet foods on the rise.
Milan’s Enoteca Cotti, located in a prime area, reported stable sales compared to last year, but noted a decline in high-spending tourism. Sparkling wines like Franciacorta and emerging favorites such as Alta Langa continue to be popular, while interest in Piedmont and Tuscan red wines from tourists remains strong.
Florence’s Enoteca Oratio, blending a traditional wine shop with a bookshop and tasting room, saw a successful summer thanks to a significant international tourist presence. The shop stocks niche Italian wines primarily for locals, while tourists gravitate toward familiar names such as Brunello, Barolo, and Amarone. Co-owner Riccardo Gavelli is optimistic about Christmas but senses a cautious sentiment from fellow operators.
Looking Forward
As we approach the critical Christmas season, wine merchants are optimistic but wary, balancing their excitement with careful inventory management amid economic uncertainty. Italian wine shops are well-positioned to capitalize on the holiday demand for fine wines and luxurious pairings, whether for personal enjoyment or as corporate gifts. The enduring allure of Italian wine regions—Piedmont, Tuscany, Veneto, and beyond—along with the wine merchant’s unique role in curating these experiences, secures Italian wines a place at festive tables worldwide.
Source: WineNews