In the heart of Portugal’s Bairrada region—an area better known for sparkling wines and the powerful, tannic Baga grape—a quiet cultural revival is taking place.
Adega Malápio, a small family-run winery in Aguada de Baixo near Águeda, is breathing new life into an ancient winemaking technique that dates back more than 2,000 years: vinho de talha, wine fermented and aged in large clay amphorae.
This tradition, rooted in Roman winemaking practices, is rare in Bairrada today, making Adega Malápio’s work especially significant. While talha wines have long survived in Alentejo, their presence in northern and central Portugal was largely lost—until now.
A Family Legacy Reborn
The project is led by Romeu Martins, who set out to restore the legacy of his grandfather Aristides. His mission is deeply personal: to return to the roots of local winemaking, honoring ancestral methods while showcasing the expressive potential of Bairrada’s historic vineyards.
Adega Malápio’s talhas are lined only with beeswax and pine resin, respecting ancient techniques. Grapes ferment with skins and stems for extended periods, creating wines of striking structure, texture and authenticity—wines that speak not only of place but of time.
Vineyards With History
The vineyards supplying Adega Malápio’s talha wines are remarkable. Some are described as medieval, planted in traditional field blends that mirror the complexity of old Portugal. The grape varieties include:
- Bical
- Cercial
- Baga
- Bastardo
- Rabo de Ovelha
- Touriga Nacional
- Tinta Roriz
- Maria Gomes
- Trincadeira
- Bicalinho
These old vines are cultivated without herbicides and with minimal intervention, reflecting a precision viticulture philosophy where each vine is treated individually. The focus is on sustainability, biodiversity and natural balance.
Sustainability at the Core
Adega Malápio integrates environmental responsibility into every stage of production—from soil health and low-impact viticulture to energy-efficient practices in the cellar. The winery is currently in the process of obtaining sustainability certification.
The estate is also accessible to visitors with reduced mobility and is fully pet-friendly, aligning with its philosophy of openness and community.
Enotourism: A Gateway to Tradition
Enotourism is a central pillar of the Adega Malápio project. Visitors can:
- Explore the century-old cellar
- Walk through the medieval vineyard
- Learn about the talha winemaking process
- Participate in harvest activities
- Enjoy jeep tours through the surrounding landscape
- Attend wine meditation sessions
A highlight is tasting talha wines alongside Leitão Assado à Bairrada, the region’s famous roast suckling pig. The winery collaborates with local chefs and sommeliers to design immersive gastronomic experiences throughout the year.
Cultural Connections Through Wine
Adega Malápio has also become a cultural hub, hosting artistic and sensory events that weave together:
- Visual arts
- Music
- Theater
- Literature
These experiences highlight how wine intersects with Portuguese identity, tradition and creativity. Workshops in talha winemaking attract enthusiasts eager to understand these ancient techniques firsthand.
Bringing Wine Into the Digital Age
Despite its focus on tradition, Adega Malápio embraces modern convenience. Through the youwine app, customers can buy wines directly from the cellar or online, with worldwide shipping that includes all customs and delivery fees upfront. This bridges local craftsmanship with global accessibility.
A Tribute to Heritage and Innovation
For Romeu Martins, Adega Malápio is more than a winery—it is a tribute to family, history and craft. Each bottle is a testament to resilience, cultural memory and the rediscovery of ancestral methods in a modern context.
As global interest in natural wines, amphora-aging, and sustainable tourism continues to grow, Adega Malápio stands out as a rare destination where authenticity and innovation walk hand in hand. In every glass of vinho de talha from Bairrada, one tastes not only the grapes, but the spirit of a region reconnecting with its ancient roots.
Source: Vinetur