Prosecco, Italy's internationally adored sparkling wine, is facing an alarming challenge in one of its largest markets, the UK. The growing popularity of the drink has led to an influx of imitations and outright counterfeits.
While imitations attempt to replicate the style of Prosecco without being bound by the wine's controlled designation of origin (DOC), counterfeits go a step further, illegally presenting themselves as genuine Prosecco, complete with fake DOC seals. This issue has spread to other global markets, but nowhere is the problem more acute than in the UK, where demand for Prosecco has skyrocketed.
The Rise of Counterfeits
Prosecco’s appeal in the UK, both for celebratory and everyday occasions, has resulted in a massive market. Between September 2022 and September 2023, UK consumers bought a staggering 85.5 million bottles, placing the UK second only to the US in terms of consumption. Unfortunately, this surge has created fertile ground for fraudulent products, as some businesses exploit the high demand by selling counterfeit versions, often at lower prices, that don’t adhere to DOC regulations.
The issue is worsened by the presence of Prosecco sold in unauthorised formats. Under DOC guidelines, Prosecco must be produced in the regions of Veneto or Friuli-Venezia Giulia and sold exclusively in glass bottles. However, cans and pressure dispensers have become increasingly common in UK pubs and restaurants, particularly in London, despite these formats being explicitly forbidden. The sale of Prosecco in such containers is a blatant violation of Italian wine law, and these deceptive practices are now in the spotlight.
The Consorzio Tutela Prosecco DOC Takes Action
To combat this growing problem, the Consorzio Tutela Prosecco DOC, the organisation charged with safeguarding and promoting the Prosecco DOC, has implemented a strategic response. Recognising the scale of the issue, the Consorzio opted to launch an awareness campaign in the UK, specifically targeting London, where counterfeit products are particularly rampant.
Earlier this year, 880 posters were distributed throughout the city, boldly stating, "This is not Prosecco" alongside images of beer cans or non-compliant containers. The aim of the campaign is clear: to educate British consumers about what constitutes authentic Prosecco and to dissuade them from purchasing counterfeit versions. Stefano Zanette, president of the Consorzio, emphasised that direct, public-facing initiatives are essential to address consumer confusion and ensure the protection of Prosecco’s reputation.
Rather than pursuing costly and time-consuming legal action, the Consorzio hopes this educational approach will raise awareness and reduce demand for fraudulent products. However, the problem is far from new. Imitations of European wine traditions are not uncommon, but the frequency and scale of Prosecco fraud in the UK has reached a tipping point, necessitating decisive action.
What Makes Prosecco, Prosecco?
The Prosecco DOC designation is not just about geographical boundaries. Established in 2009, the regulations enforce strict rules on production methods, grape variety (Glera), and final packaging. Only sparkling wines produced within the defined regions of Veneto and Friuli-Venezia Giulia, and bottled according to tradition, can bear the Prosecco name. The DOC also insists on natural fermentation methods to achieve the fizz that Prosecco is famous for, distinguishing it from mass-produced, artificially carbonated wines.
Yet, as Prosecco’s popularity expands beyond Italy, ensuring compliance with these regulations has proven increasingly difficult, especially in foreign markets like the UK. Local distributors, eager to capitalise on the beverage's popularity, have manipulated its presentation to fit consumer preferences, resulting in misleading and sometimes illegal packaging. This flexibility undermines the DOC rules and misguides consumers who may be unaware they are purchasing an inferior product.
Fraud's Impact on the Global Wine Market
The Prosecco issue in the UK is far from isolated. Many traditional European wines face similar challenges as global demand rises. Spanish cava and French champagne are two major competitors, each grappling with their own battles against imitation and counterfeiting. As a result, the protection of wine appellations has become a high priority for producers across Europe.
The Consorzio’s efforts have received backing from other European wine bodies, which see this initiative as a model for defending their own geographical indications (GI). The proliferation of fake products not only harms the reputation of the wine itself but also damages the economic interests of producers adhering to the strict production rules outlined in DOC and GI regulations.
Why Consumer Awareness Matters
Ultimately, combating Prosecco fraud starts with consumer knowledge. By making sure the public understands the distinctive qualities of genuine Prosecco, such as its origin, bottle format, and production methods, the Consorzio hopes to weaken the demand for counterfeit products. If consumers are better informed, they can make conscious decisions to avoid imitations.
The success of the Consorzio's campaign could have wide-reaching implications, both for Prosecco and for other wines facing similar threats. Educating consumers is the first line of defence in the fight against fraud, and if these efforts prove effective, they could set a precedent for how other traditional European products protect their identity in a globalised market.
Source: Vinetur