France is grappling with one of its warmest winters on record, causing considerable anxiety among the country’s vignerons.
Tom Warner of Domaine de Joÿ in the Southwest expressed concern: "It’s been warm since the 15th of December, with nothing below zero for several months. It’s worrying."
Across France, especially in northerly appellations, growers like David Depuydt from Domaine de la Genillotte in Chablis are alarmed by the early budding of vines, a phenomenon typically seen in early April. "We’re a month ahead."
Meteo France reports stark statistics: this winter has been remarkably mild, with temperatures averaging 2°C above normal. February was exceptionally warm, averaging 3.6°C above usual levels, resembling more of a spring month.
March continued the trend with temperatures soaring into the high teens across the nation. While seemingly benign, these excessively mild winters pose a significant risk: premature vine activity leaves them vulnerable to potential April frosts, which remain a genuine threat until mid-May.
"Spring is arriving early in our vineyards, yet frost remains a concern until mid-May," remarked Sophie Bertin of Domaine Eric Louis in Sancerre.
The disastrous consequences of such scenarios were vividly seen in 2021 when a similar pattern led to devastating frost damage across France. Despite a promising start, a sudden cold snap in early April decimated vineyards, causing extensive crop losses.
Thiébault Huber, from Meursault and president of the Confederation of Appellations and Winegrowers of Burgundy (CAVB), pointed out the underlying issue: "The problem lies not in occasional April frosts but in summer-like conditions in February and March."
Growers resort to expensive measures like fans or bougies (paraffin candles) to protect their vineyards. However, such solutions are costly, with fans covering up to 5 hectares and costing around EUR 40,000. Bougies, at EUR 2,000 per hectare, pose a substantial financial burden, especially for larger estates like Château Lestrille in Entre-Deux-Mers, Bordeaux.
The economic impact extends beyond the vineyards, affecting consumers worldwide. Reduced yields and higher production costs invariably lead to increased wine prices, particularly in regions like Burgundy, which has suffered significant production losses over the last decade.
Despite recent favorable vintages in 2022 and 2023, a similar-sized harvest in 2024 may stabilize prices. Yet, Greg Sherwood MW, fine wine director at Museum Wines, believes sustained efforts are needed to make wines more accessible to consumers.
As France’s wine industry navigates these climatic challenges, stakeholders globally are anxiously monitoring the weather, hoping for a favorable outcome in the crucial weeks ahead.
Source: Decanter