The Lodi region of California, once a proud symbol of American viticulture, is experiencing one of the most challenging moments in its long agricultural history.
Known for over a century as a hub of grape growing—thanks to its fertile soils, cool climate, and resilience even during Prohibition—Lodi is now dotted with neglected vineyards, uprooted vines, and “For Sale” signs along once-prosperous country roads.
A Landscape in Decline
This summer, the landscape of Lodi tells a somber story. Where there should be green vines bursting with fruit, shades of yellow and brown dominate. Some vineyards are completely abandoned, with vines stacked and left to be burned. Others have been harvested partially or not at all. The once-thriving region is in the grip of a crisis that threatens its identity and future.
The Collapse of the Grape Market
A major contributor to the crisis is the economic collapse in grape demand. Until 2023, many growers held on, hoping to find buyers. But those hopes are fading fast. “It’s not just a downturn. It’s a structural collapse,” says Kyle Collins of Allied Grape Growers. Vineyard owners are struggling with plummeting grape prices, insufficient contracts, and a total absence of market confidence.
Jeff Bitter, president of Allied Grape Growers, argues that unfair competition from subsidized European wines plays a role. While American shelves are increasingly filled with imports, thousands of tons of California grapes rot unharvested. Bitter advocates for tariffs on foreign wine, not out of protectionism, but to level a distorted playing field. He points to the pandemic years as proof: when imports fell, domestic wine sales rose.
Yet, political will remains weak. Governor Gavin Newsom’s failed attempt to block federal tariffs sparked outrage among growers, who see such policies as their last hope.
Human and Economic Toll
The fallout extends beyond landowners. Farmworkers, already vulnerable, are forced to travel farther afield to find work, increasing their exposure to immigration enforcement and economic instability. An estimated 20,000 acres of Lodi vineyards were left untended this year, representing millions of dollars in lost wages and local revenue.
Kyle Knoll, whose family has farmed in Lodi since 1908, has seen his land’s value cut in half in just five years. Last year, he harvested just 12 of his 80 acres. This year, he’s working 20, but doubts he’ll sell everything. Buyers are more interested in building homes than planting grapes. “We’re expected to be sustainable,” Knoll says, “but no one wants to pay sustainable prices.”
Some growers are looking at crops like hay or almonds—but those, too, offer no guarantee of profitability or long-term stability.
Cultural and Generational Loss
Lodi’s crisis is also a cultural one. Many of its vineyards have been passed down for generations. Now, without viable income and with younger generations opting out of farming, the cycle of succession is breaking. The region risks not just economic erosion but a loss of identity—of traditions rooted in the land.
What Lies Ahead?
The future of Lodi hangs in the balance. Some hope for market correction, others for political support. But for many, the decision has already been made—pull the vines, sell the land, and move on. If no decisive action is taken, one of America’s historic winegrowing regions may soon be known not for its vineyards, but for what once was.
Source: Vinetur