When fifth-generation Austrian winemaker Lenz Moser speaks about the future of wine, the industry listens.
At a recent tasting event in London, Moser confidently declared that white wines are set to be China's next big hit.
His remarks, delivered to an audience of Masters of Wine, journalists, and sommeliers on March 19, were backed by a compelling demonstration of Chinese wines' potential to stand shoulder-to-shoulder with global benchmarks.
A Nod to History and Culture
Moser began his presentation with a striking statement: "When the Germans and the Austrians were still climbing trees, the Chinese were developing culture." This historical perspective set the stage for his ambitious vision of China’s burgeoning wine industry, particularly in white wines, and underscored the rich cultural heritage that could fuel its rise.
The London Tasting: A Blind Comparison
The event, dubbed the inaugural London Tasting, saw Moser alongside fellow Austrian and Master Sommelier Stefan Neumann. The duo orchestrated a blind tasting that pitted lesser-known wines and regions against some of the world's most revered wine benchmarks. This concept was inspired by the legendary 1976 Judgement of Paris, a pivotal event that transformed perceptions of New World wines.
In February, Moser had already conducted a Paris Tasting, presenting wines from Changyu Moser XV alongside renowned names such as Cloudy Bay, Opus One, Lafite, Sassicaia, and Chablis Premier Cru Fevre. The judges recognized the wines as distinctly Chinese, yet they held up remarkably well against these iconic labels, demonstrating China's capacity to produce high-quality wines.
Showcasing Global Projects
At the London event, held at the Peninsula Hotel, Moser and Neumann showcased not only Chinese wines but also some of Moser’s international projects. These included comparisons with esteemed wines like d’Yquem, Sonoma’s Kistler, and Wachau’s F.X. Pichler. This lineup underscored the quality and diversity of the wines being produced under Moser’s guidance.
The Future of Chinese White Wines
The star of the tasting was undoubtedly the dry white wines, followed by two flights of sweet wines. Moser emphasized the complexity and challenge of white winemaking, describing it as more difficult than red winemaking. His efforts in white wine production are exemplified by the 2021 vintage of Changyu Moser XV’s only white wine, a unique Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Blanc de Noir’ — the only white Cabernet Sauvignon in the world.
Despite China’s wine industry being predominantly red — with red wines accounting for 86.3% of production and 92% of consumption in 2021 — Moser sees immense potential in white wines. His optimism is grounded in the belief that China will not miss out on the global white wine boom. However, he acknowledges the challenges, such as the scarcity of suitable vineyards for white wine production, which led him to innovate with free-run juice from Cabernet Sauvignon berries in Ningxia.
Quality and Value at the Forefront
Moser’s commitment to quality and value was evident throughout the tasting. "The stars are the wines," he said, highlighting his objective to elevate lesser-known regions by comparing them with the world’s best. The tasting included a diverse array of wines, focusing on what Moser and Neumann liked the most, rather than adhering to a specific style.
Six sweet wines were also featured, aimed at challenging the declining perception of this category. A standout was an ice wine from Changyu, produced in the Lianoning region, showcased alongside Château de Fargues Sauternes and Kracher Beerenauslese Cuvee from Austria. This comparison was designed to position Chinese wines within the global fine wine arena.
The Full Lineup
The comprehensive list of wines tasted included:
- 2022 Assyrtiko, Vassaltis, Santorini, Greece
- 2021 Furmint, MM5, Ma’d Moser, Tokaj, Hungary
- 2022 Grüner Veltliner, New Chapter, Niederösterreich, Austria
- 2022 Grüner Veltliner Ried Zwirch, Markus Huber, Traisental, Austria
- 2022 Grüner Veltliner Kellerberg, F.X. Pichler, Wachau, Austria
- 2021 Furmint, MM55, Ma’d Moser, Tokaj, Hungary
- 2021 Chardonnay Les Noisetiers, Kistler, Sonoma Coast, USA
- 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon ‘Blanc de Noir’, Helan Mountain Range, Ningxia, China
- 2021 Pinot Gris, Clos Saint Urbain, Rangen de Thann, Zind Humbrecht, Alsace, France
- 2022 Arinto, Ribeiro & Moser, Vinho Regional Lisboa, Portugal
- 2021 Vidal, Ice Wine, Changyu, Lianoning, China
- 2015 Château de Fargues, Lur Saluces, Sauternes, France
- 2020 Beerenauslese Cuvee, Kracher, Burgenland, Austria
- 2016 Château d’Yquem, Sauternes, France
- 2013 Tokaji Aszu 6 puttonyos MM 555, Mad Moser x Grand Tokaj, Hungary
- 2019 Tokaji Aszu 6 puttonyos, Füleky, Tokaj, Hungary
Conclusion
Lenz Moser’s vision for Chinese white wines is ambitious yet grounded in a deep respect for China’s cultural heritage and potential. As he continues to innovate and push the boundaries of what Chinese wines can achieve, tastings like the London event play a crucial role in reshaping perceptions and positioning China as a formidable player in the global wine industry. With each vintage, Moser promises improving quality, and his efforts suggest that the future of Chinese white wines is indeed promising.
Source: The Drinks Business