Jean-Philippe Granier, technical manager of the AOC Languedoc, has raised serious concerns about the challenges facing one of France's most important wine regions following this year’s grape harvest.
In an interview with La Marseillaise, Granier discussed the growing pressures of climate change, the introduction of new grape varieties, and, most alarmingly, the impending large-scale grubbing-up of vineyards, a measure set to impact tens of thousands of hectares.
Climate Change: A Growing Threat to Languedoc’s Vineyards
Granier highlighted the increasingly volatile weather conditions that are threatening wine production in the Mediterranean basin. He pointed to a stark example on August 2, when the Gard region experienced 26 mm of rainfall in a storm, while Narbonne received just 3 mm. This erratic weather pattern has caused significant disruptions, with some growers in Fitou starting their harvest as early as the end of July—much earlier than the traditional timeline.
Climate change is forcing producers to rethink how they manage their vineyards. Granier noted the recent introduction of more resilient grape varieties, many of which are hybrids, but cautioned that these are not an immediate solution. He believes it will take time to return to cultivating traditional grape varieties like Cinsault, Piran Noir, and Piquepoul Noir, which were popular in the 18th and 19th centuries and are better suited to the region’s environmental conditions. Granier also emphasised the need for modernised cultivation techniques, rootstocks, and clones to tackle the growing climate challenges.
Regulations Lagging Behind Climate Realities
Despite the urgency of the situation, Granier expressed frustration with the slow pace of regulatory change in the wine sector. He explained that it took 15 years to adapt France's wine code to accommodate new grape varieties, cultivation methods, and irrigation strategies. However, even these regulations, painstakingly implemented, are now outdated in light of the rapidly shifting climate. Updating these rules, he warned, could take many more years—time that winegrowers in the region simply do not have.
Grubbing-Up: A Drastic Response to Overproduction and Climate Challenges
Perhaps the most pressing issue is the grubbing-up programme that will take place after this year's harvest. Between 60,000 and 100,000 hectares of vineyards are expected to be cleared, a drastic measure reflecting both the impact of climate change and the region’s chronic overproduction problem.
Languedoc currently produces approximately 1.1 billion litres of wine annually, but only 800 million litres are sold, leaving a surplus of 300 million litres. This overproduction has been a persistent issue, contributing significantly to the region’s economic woes. Granier himself admitted that, if he were offered adequate compensation, he would consider uprooting half of his 45 hectares of vineyards. But he stressed that climate and overproduction are not the only factors at play—there is also a systemic imbalance between supply and demand.
Uncertainty and Unrest Among Winegrowers
Despite the scale of the upcoming grubbing-up programme, Granier noted that the details remain unclear, particularly regarding compensation for affected winegrowers. He also reminded that the Languedoc has already lost 200,000 hectares of vineyards since the 1980s, yet these measures have failed to resolve the underlying issues. As a result, he believes the region is on the brink of an unprecedented crisis.
The growing unrest among winegrowers has been palpable in recent months, with tensions rising in response to declining consumption and economic hardship. Granier warned that the situation could reach a boiling point after the harvest, as winegrowers struggle to stay afloat. He also criticised the lack of intervention from large wine companies, or "négoce", which have been unable to adapt to the falling demand for wine.
A Bleak Future Without Long-Term Solutions
Granier expressed deep concern for the future of the region’s winegrowers, many of whom face an uncertain future with little support. He argued that more needs to be done to provide those who wish to leave the industry with a dignified exit, as current policies do not offer sufficient long-term solutions. This lack of forward-thinking strategy is creating a climate of insecurity, exacerbating the region’s problems.
Optimism for 2024 Harvest, but Structural Issues Remain
Despite the grim outlook, Granier ended on a somewhat hopeful note, expressing optimism for the 2024 harvest, which is expected to be strong in both quality and quantity. However, he was quick to point out that even a good harvest is unlikely to address the deep-rooted structural issues plaguing the Languedoc wine sector.
In summary, the Languedoc wine region is facing a perfect storm of climate change, regulatory inertia, and economic overproduction, with the proposed grubbing-up programme serving as both a symptom and a potential solution. But as Granier warned, without more decisive action and long-term planning, the region could be heading towards an irreversible crisis. Winegrowers in the south of France are at their breaking point, and the need for sustainable change has never been more urgent.