France—long seen as the global benchmark of wine excellence—is facing one of the most severe crises in its modern viticultural history.
On Monday, the French Ministry of Agriculture convened an emergency meeting with sector representatives to assess the mounting challenges affecting thousands of producers across the country. For many winegrowers, this gathering could be a turning point—one that determines whether their businesses can survive the next few years.
A Sector in Distress
Jean-Marie Fabre, president of the independent winegrowers’ union and a producer in Fitou, did not hide the urgency of the situation. According to him, up to 20% of French winegrowers may be forced to abandon the profession without immediate governmental support.
This is alarming for an industry that is not only emblematic of France’s culture but also central to its economy. Wine is one of the nation’s three major industrial pillars, alongside aerospace and luxury goods. It generates an annual turnover of EUR 92 billion and sustains more than 440,000 jobs, both directly and indirectly.
A Crisis Years in the Making
The current collapse is not the result of one isolated issue, but of a cumulative series of shocks:
1. Tariffs and Global Trade Tensions
- During Donald Trump’s presidency, U.S. tariffs hit French wines hard.
- Exports to China—once a booming market—have halved since 2017.
- In 2024, China imposed a 32.2% tariff on many wine-based EU spirits, further worsening the situation.
2. Climate Change Impacts
Winemakers face increasingly extreme weather patterns:
- Heat waves exceeding 40°C
- Hailstorms
- Prolonged drought periods
In the Aude department, president of the local growers’ union, Damien Onorre, reports losing 50% of his harvest over the past three years. Production in the region has nearly halved in that same period.
This year, France expects about 3.6 billion liters of wine—similar to last year but still considered very low by historical standards.
3. Rising Production Costs
Following Russia’s invasion of Ukraine, the cost of energy, glass, and raw materials skyrocketed. For many independent producers, margins evaporated.
4. Falling Consumption
Domestic consumption is declining, especially among younger generations, while international markets remain unpredictable.
The consequence? Large stocks of unsold wine, mounting debt, and families unable to continue their multigenerational work.
Demonstrations and Urgent Demands
Last weekend, thousands of winegrowers took to the streets of Béziers to demand a government rescue plan. Their appeals include:
– Compensation for uprooting unproductive vineyards
- 27,000 hectares have already been uprooted with subsidies.
- Another 35,000 hectares could follow if new funding is approved.
- In Bordeaux alone, 12,000 hectares have been destroyed.
– Funding to distill unsold wine into biofuel
Distillation programs were historically used to stabilize the market, and producers argue this measure is again urgently needed.
– Access to the EU exceptional reserve
Portugal successfully accessed this fund in 2023 for crisis distillation, but France has not yet received approval.
According to a FranceAgriMer study, one in five French winegrowers is considering shutting down. The potential loss? Up to 100,000 jobs.
A Crisis Meeting Before a Major Industry Event
The timing of the emergency meeting is significant: it takes place just before the International Exhibition of Equipment and Knowledge for Wine Production (Montpellier, Tuesday–Thursday). Instead of celebrating innovation, the sector finds itself pleading for survival.
A Plea From the Vineyards
Jean-Marie Fabre, whose Domaine de la Rochelierre produces around 80,000 bottles annually, represents 17,000 independent growers. He emphasizes that they have never experienced such a prolonged and complex crisis.
Producers are depleting their financial reserves, and without political action, closures will spread across France’s iconic wine regions—from the Languedoc to Bordeaux, from the Loire Valley to Burgundy.
As the world watches, the question remains:
Will France protect one of its most symbolic and economically vital industries—or will thousands of family wineries disappear into history?
Source: Vinetur