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France: Plaimont – where the past holds the answer to the future

When Plaimont was founded in 1979 by uniting the Plaisance, Aignan, and Saint Mont cooperatives, it embarked on a journey that, nearly 50 years later, remains remarkable for its ambition, scope, and focus.

Today, Plaimont boasts over 800 growers, 5,300 hectares, and 10 châteaux under its umbrella.

The cooperative produces wine under the Madiran, Saint Mont, Pacherenc du Vic-Bilh, and, since 2023, Jurançon AOCs, as well as the Côtes de Gascogne IGP. This "super-cooperative" is one of Europe’s most esteemed independent research centers on historical ampelography, known for the distinctiveness and uncompromising quality of its diverse range across all price points.

Ahead of Its Time

Many initially questioned the principles on which Plaimont was founded. "At the beginning, I guess we doubted ourselves and whether the project would be sustainable," recalls Olivier Bourdet-Pees, managing director of the cooperative. "The market was focused, almost obsessed, with the dominant [international] varieties." The cooperative's mission to combat severe biodiversity loss and preserve local grape varieties—many of them nearly extinct and not grown commercially—defined its ethos. This philosophy was based on the belief that these local varieties could uniquely express terroir and were better adapted to local conditions, making them more resilient to natural challenges. Both aspects have become increasingly relevant as the end of the millennium approached.

Today, the varieties and viticultural approach championed by Plaimont are exemplary in addressing the challenges of climate change and market saturation through a historical and natural lens. The cooperative has built a sustainable business that supports the livelihoods of a large community of growers and collaborators.

Always Looking Back – and Ahead

Plaimont's mission has been validated over the years by both its commercial success and the international recognition of its research efforts. The cooperative has built a network of like-minded viticulturists, ampelographers, and historians that informs its pioneering projects, including a research winery and France's largest private collection of vines.

Balancing market demands and the preservation of Gascogne’s viticultural heritage, Plaimont has managed to thrive commercially while staying true to its mission. "We want to establish direct links between varieties, terroir, and [historical] origin," explains Bourdet-Pees. "Fortunately, our approach appeals directly to a new audience interested in background, history, stories, and context."

An Ongoing Mission

The alignment of market trends with Plaimont’s original mission has long validated the cooperative’s founders and growers. However, they are not resting on their laurels. "There’s so much work to do," Bourdet-Pees continues. "We’ll keep working on drinkability, with a special focus on reinventing the reds. And we hope to remove the use of pesticides across all our vineyards. Above all, we want to remain true to our mission."

This mission includes the ongoing preservation of local varieties such as Tardiff, Manseng Noir, Gros, Petit Manseng, Arrufiac, and Petit Courbu by collecting and propagating plant material and exploring their winemaking potential. The results are evident not only on wine shelves worldwide but also in the growing consensus that these once-endangered grapes hold the key to the future of quality, balanced winemaking in Gascogne.

 

Source: Decanter

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