On Monday, the European Parliament's agriculture committee (AGRI) discussed proposals aimed at reviving the wine industry, which has seen a significant downturn.
With wine consumption in Europe at its lowest point in three decades, the committee heard recommendations from a high-level group focused on wine policy, presenting a series of measures intended to address the challenges faced by wine producers across the Union.
Among the key proposals was a call to adjust EU regulations to make it easier for producers to sell de-alcoholised and low-alcohol wines, tapping into a growing market both inside and outside the EU. As consumer preferences evolve, particularly among health-conscious individuals, demand for these alternatives has surged. The recommendations hope to make these wines more widely available by easing legal and regulatory restrictions, opening up new opportunities for the wine sector to diversify its offerings and remain relevant in an increasingly health-conscious world.
Resistance from the Far-Right
However, not all members of the European Parliament were in agreement with the proposed changes. Gilles Pennelle, a far-right MEP representing the Patriots for Europe (PfE), voiced strong opposition to the promotion of "alcohol-free wine." Pennelle argued that the growing push for alcohol-free alternatives was part of a broader "hygienist ideology"—a term used to describe a societal trend prioritising health over traditional lifestyles. He contended that this ideology was threatening to dismantle established customs, including the cultural practice of enjoying wine.
Pennelle’s remarks sparked debate, but what he failed to acknowledge was that the wine sector itself was consulted during the forum. This dialogue suggests that the sector’s concerns were taken into account, despite the far-right's vocal resistance. His comments were echoed by French MEP Celine Imart, a member of the centre-right European People's Party (EPP), who labelled the “hygienist discourse” as "exaggerated and alarmist." Imart specifically took issue with the rhetoric that even moderate wine consumption—such as one glass—could lead to health issues like cancer.
The Push for Practical Adaptations
While these traditionalist views are prominent within certain segments of the Parliament, EU capitals are becoming more pragmatic in their approach, recognising the need to adapt to changing consumer tastes. One of the most notable recent developments came from Italy, where the far-right government signed a decree in December allowing wines with less than 0.5% alcohol to be labelled as 'de-alcoholised.' Wines with alcohol content between 0.5% and 8.5% will be classified as 'partially de-alcoholised.'
This new decree aligns with the EU's 2021 reform of the Common Agricultural Policy (CAP), which allowed for these terms to be officially recognised. However, Italy had yet to implement this change, which is now set to be put into effect.
Despite Italy’s more cautious stance on the terminology of these wines, Agriculture Minister Francesco Lollobrigida expressed support for the growing market, stating in April at Vinitaly—Italy's largest wine fair—that “Let’s make it alcohol-free, but let’s not call it wine.” This comment underscores Italy's desire to maintain the prestige and cultural significance of wine, while also acknowledging the practical reality that there is increasing consumer interest in lower-alcohol alternatives.
The EU's Growing Interest in the De-Alcoholised Wine Market
At the EU level, the European Commission has expressed its support for helping more wine producers enter the burgeoning de-alcoholised wine market. One of the proposed changes includes revising the organic certification process for de-alcoholised wines. Currently, the methods used to remove alcohol from wine are not recognised under EU organic rules, limiting the potential of organic certifications for these products. The Commission is considering allowing de-alcoholised wines to be certified as 'organic,' a move that could further incentivise producers to embrace this growing trend.
Source: EurActiv