Dom Pérignon, the legendary name in Champagne, is navigating a transformative period under the guidance of its cellar master, Vincent Chaperon.
This evolution is occurring in the context of profound climate changes that are reshaping viticulture across France and impacting the renowned Champagne house’s production and quality.
Adapting to a Changing Climate
The challenges posed by climate change are particularly acute in Champagne, where extreme weather conditions have become increasingly common. Chaperon’s role has become pivotal in addressing these changes, especially in determining the optimal harvest dates for each plot within the grand and premier cru vineyards. This task is crucial for maintaining the complex style and longevity that define Dom Pérignon, especially in its esteemed P2 and P3 editions.
Climate-induced drought conditions have led to varied soil responses, significantly affecting grape quality. For instance, the Aÿ grand cru’s La Côte plot, characterized by its chalky soil and southern exposure, experienced severe heat and dryness. This adversely affected the Pinot Noir grapes, leading to a challenging harvest. In contrast, vineyards with more vegetation showed better moisture retention, resulting in more balanced grapes.
The 2015 Vintage: A Warm and Dry Challenge
The 2015 vintage stands out as one of the warmest and driest in recent memory, surpassing even the extreme years of 1976 and 2003. The summer of 2015 was notably arid, with minimal rainfall from May to mid-August. This situation was particularly challenging for the Pinot Noir grapes, which make up 50% of the 2015 blend. Despite these challenges, Pinot Noir performed relatively well that year.
Chaperon’s approach to managing this situation involves harvesting the grapes before they exceed 11 degrees of potential alcohol, balancing fruit ripeness with the necessary structural components of the wine. This meticulous method resulted in a 30% reduction in production for the 2015 vintage, emphasizing quality over quantity.
A New Winemaking Philosophy
Since 2008, Dom Pérignon has been evolving its winemaking philosophy, focusing on the separation of wines by “climats” to capture the diversity of flavor profiles. Chaperon underscores the importance of Champagne as a “vin de assemblage,” where the blending of clear wines, dosage, and maturation are crucial for achieving the desired style.
A significant shift under Chaperon’s leadership is the emphasis on “tactivity” in tasting—evaluating the texture of the wine on the palate rather than just its aromas. This approach reflects a broader trend towards appreciating the sensory complexity of Champagne.
Sustainability and Innovation
Since taking over as chef de cave in 2019, Chaperon has continued the legacy of his predecessor, Richard Geoffroy, by steering Dom Pérignon towards a sustainable future. The brand has invested in research and development to find rootstock varieties that are more resilient to diseases and extreme weather conditions. Additionally, Dom Pérignon has developed its own yeast from a selection of 250 strains, further customizing their fermentation process.
Chaperon is also working on expanding the Dom Pérignon range, though specific details of this project remain under wraps. The focus on sustainability and quality over quantity is central to this initiative, reflecting the brand’s commitment to adapting to a changing climate while preserving its storied heritage.
Looking Forward
As Dom Pérignon navigates these challenges, Vincent Chaperon’s leadership is crucial in ensuring that the brand not only adapts to the changing environment but also continues to produce exceptional Champagne. The careful management of harvest dates, innovative winemaking techniques, and a focus on sustainability are all part of a broader strategy to maintain the high standards and iconic status of Dom Pérignon for future generations.
In this era of change, Dom Pérignon’s commitment to excellence remains steadfast, ensuring that each bottle continues to embody the artistry and heritage of one of the world’s most celebrated Champagne houses.
Source: Vinetur