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De-alcoholised Wine: A Contested Yet Growing Segment in the Wine Industry

As consumer preferences shift, de-alcoholised wine producers are challenging the conventions of an industry long associated with alcohol.

The recent International Organisation of Vine and Wine (OIV) Congress in Dijon, held from October 14-18, highlighted the rising interest in de-alcoholised wines, sparking discussions that combined technical, regulatory, and cultural viewpoints. Industry representatives, like BevZero from California, argued that de-alcoholised wine should be viewed not as a threat but as an evolution to meet modern demands, especially from younger consumers.

BevZero’s Journey and the Market Potential for De-alcoholised Wines

Originally founded as ConeTech in Sonoma’s wine region, BevZero has spent 30 years refining its methods of managing alcohol levels in wine. This adjustment initially addressed a need triggered by warmer climates, as grapes produced with more sugar led to higher alcohol content. BevZero has since expanded into de-alcoholisation, offering wines that contain less than 0.5% alcohol. According to Irem Eren, BevZero’s development director, the surge in demand for such wines is due to various factors, including health, religious considerations, and social movements like "Dry January" and "Sober October."

Eren’s presentation at the OIV Congress underscored that de-alcoholised wine can coexist harmoniously with traditional wine, serving as a response to evolving consumer preferences. His perspective aligns with some industry members, though many remain skeptical. Notably, Zafer Chaoui, from Château Ksara in Lebanon, views de-alcoholised wines as an innovative niche but maintains that the inherent balance in traditional wines remains ideal. The resistance, he suggests, is rooted in the cultural identity of wine as an alcoholic beverage and its long-standing traditions.

Challenges in Production and Sensory Experience

One of the significant challenges for de-alcoholised wines is the sensory gap left by alcohol removal. In traditional wines, alcohol serves as a carrier for aromas, mouthfeel, and tannins, all integral to the drinking experience. De-alcoholisation techniques—like microfiltration and vacuum distillation—often strip the wine of its original depth, requiring producers to add components such as tannins and natural extracts to replicate the flavor, aroma, and body. This adjustment, however, can alter the wine's character, making it less comparable to classic varieties like Chablis or Sancerre.

Nevertheless, sommelier Paz Levinson, associated with chef Anne-Sophie Pic’s restaurants, has started incorporating a limited selection of de-alcoholised wines into her offerings. Levinson points to specialist vineyards in Germany that are pioneering high-quality non-alcoholic wines. These offerings signal a slow but notable shift in perception among wine professionals and consumers open to trying a different experience.

Market Momentum and Industry Investment

This interest in de-alcoholised wines has not gone unnoticed by major players. Luxury group LVMH has recently invested in non-alcoholic sparkling wines, underscoring the category's growth potential. Despite de-alcoholised wines currently representing a modest 0.5% of the global market, the OIV projects that low and no-alcohol wines could account for as much as 4-5% of the wine industry in the coming years, driven by health-conscious consumers and expanding product options.

Regulatory Hurdles and Cultural Acceptance

The OIV faces regulatory challenges in establishing a clear framework for de-alcoholised wines, partly due to its 1920s definition of wine as a product derived from the alcoholic fermentation of grape must. This definition complicates the classification of de-alcoholised wines, as OIV member states work to delineate what constitutes “wine” versus a “drink made from de-alcoholised wine.” The European Union has started to accept the term "wine" for de-alcoholised products, an important step toward broader regulatory acceptance. The OIV’s eventual standards will shape global production and marketing of de-alcoholised wines, as member states negotiate permitted treatments and labeling requirements.

Beyond regulatory issues, the cultural shift required for de-alcoholised wines to gain full legitimacy remains challenging. Wine has long been viewed as an inherently alcoholic beverage, a symbol of social celebration and tradition. The rise of de-alcoholised wines asks consumers and producers alike to reconsider the essence of wine. Despite this resistance, many experts agree that the growth of the No-Low category (low and zero-alcohol wines) is inevitable, with market relevance and consumer acceptance likely to increase.

Source: Vinetur

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