The Cognac region is entering a decisive moment as the grape harvest approaches in roughly two weeks.
With more than a month without significant rainfall, vineyards are showing visible signs of stress. Growers and experts are pinning their hopes on the forecasted showers at the end of this week, but the weather could prove a double-edged sword: enough rain may boost grape yields, yet excessive downpours risk triggering rot.
A Region on Alert
Independent viticulture consultant Pierre Forgeron, based in the prestigious Grande Champagne appellation, has urged growers to return from summer holidays and prepare their cellars for an early harvest. One of his clients has already begun picking 3.5 hectares of folle blanche, a delicate and fast-ripening variety. Forgeron observed that these grapes had reached potential alcohol levels between 8.3% and 8.8% and showed acidity at 7.5 g/L (expressed in sulfuric acid) by late August.
The recent heatwave, while limiting berry growth, did not hinder ripening. The result is small but sugar-rich grapes, which can create concentrated wines but may also bring volume losses.
Ugni Blanc Development
On August 18, the Station Viticole of the Bureau National Interprofessionnel du Cognac (BNIC) collected samples of ugni blanc—the backbone grape of Cognac—from 59 representative vineyard plots. Results showed average potential alcohol at 7.4% by volume, an increase of 1.3 points compared with the previous week. Acidity, however, dropped significantly to 8.2 g/L.
Since ugni blanc typically ripens about two weeks later than folle blanche, Forgeron doubts harvest will be delayed until September 15. With some plots already showing potential alcohol of 10% by August 25, he expects picking could begin sooner, comparing the situation to early vintages in 2011, 2003, and 2022.
Balancing Timing and Rainfall
Laetitia Caillaud of the Charente-Maritime Chamber of Agriculture predicts harvesting will start around September 8, though she encourages growers to wait until September 10 or 11 to benefit from the anticipated rainfall. She notes that since July 23, many vineyards have been deprived of rain—except in isolated areas such as Chenac-Saint-Seurin-d'Uzet and Rouillac. Young vines and uncultivated plots are suffering the most, while older colombard vines are holding on, though Forgeron remarks he hasn’t seen such drought pressure in years.
Yield Expectations
Yield forecasts vary. The Chamber’s network estimates around 92 hectoliters per hectare, while BNIC puts figures between 70 and 90 hectoliters per hectare. This year, BNIC has reduced the maximum yield to 7.65 hectoliters of pure alcohol per hectare, forcing producers to adjust their expectations.
Both Forgeron and Caillaud agree that at least 30 mm of rain would be needed to significantly improve yields. Even so, gains would likely be limited to 5–6 hl/ha. Forgeron suggests that 30–40 mm of well-timed rainfall could improve prospects, though it also risks splitting fragile berries or fostering rot, particularly after weeks of sun exposure.
Rising Disease Pressure
Signs of botrytis were already observed in folle blanche vineyards last week, a worrying indicator given that wet conditions would increase disease risk. Caillaud, however, remains cautiously optimistic, stressing that current vineyard health is generally good, with low grape moth populations. She acknowledges that folle blanche is naturally more prone to rot, while ugni blanc remains more resilient.
A Delicate Balance Ahead
With the harvest on the horizon, the Cognac region faces a delicate balancing act. Too little rain will limit yields, while too much could jeopardize grape health. As the season unfolds, growers are preparing for one of the most unpredictable harvests in recent memory—one that may once again be remembered alongside the early vintages of 2003, 2011, and 2022.
Source: Vinetur