Viticulture in northern Germany is undergoing a remarkable transformation.
Rising temperatures have opened up opportunities for grape growing in areas once considered too cold for viticulture, while simultaneously presenting new risks that threaten the sustainability of these ventures.
Werder: A Vineyard at the 52nd Parallel
Just 35 kilometers from Berlin, the town of Werder lies on the 52nd parallel north—a latitude comparable to Alaska or Mongolia. Here, Manfred Lindicke manages a 7.6-hectare vineyard on sandy soils along the Havel River. When he started in 1996, the grape harvest typically took place around October 1st. Today, it begins an entire month earlier, on September 1st, a striking indicator of climate change’s impact on viticulture.
Winegrowing in Werder is not new. It dates back to the Middle Ages but collapsed in the mid-19th century due to harsh frosts and economic hardship. After German reunification, pioneers like Lindicke revived viticulture in the region. According to the German Wine Institute, the average temperature between April and October has risen by more than one degree since 1990, making vine cultivation feasible again.
A Resurgence of Winegrowing in the North
Since 2016, changes in European regulations have allowed more than 200 hectares of new vineyard plantings in northern Germany. In Lower Saxony, around twenty farms have shifted toward wine production. For example, Jan Brinkmann, president of the regional winegrowing association, replaced cereal crops with three grape varieties on his 1.5-hectare estate, searching for alternatives less vulnerable to climate extremes.
The wines reflect this new geography. In Werder, Pinot Grigio has emerged as a light, fruity expression of the terroir. Local consumers like Peter Weymann, who helps with harvest, believe that German wines no longer need to be negatively compared to those from Italy or Spain.
Climate Change: A Double-Edged Sword
While warmer temperatures have enabled new opportunities, they have also brought new challenges. Lindicke points to increasingly early harvests, sun damage on certain varieties, and droughts that require drip irrigation. Added to this are hail, late frosts, and heavy rains—all consequences of growing climate volatility.
The German Wine Institute confirms that German growers currently benefit from longer growing seasons and improved ripening conditions. Yet, extreme weather events complicate this picture. Producers face an increasing threat from downy mildew after wet springs, esca during hot, dry summers, and bois noir, a disease carried northward by insects. The spread of the fruit fly adds another layer of difficulty.
To adapt, many growers—including Lindicke—have turned to fungus-resistant “PiWi” varieties, which now represent more than 3% of Germany’s vineyard area and more than half of his own vines.
Economic Pressures on Small Producers
Beyond environmental challenges, the economic landscape is equally tough. The pandemic weakened the domestic market, and many German consumers prefer cheaper imported wines. Lindicke struggles to compete when a French Sauvignon Blanc can sell for EUR 2.50 in supermarkets, while his wines must be priced between EUR 12 and 15 to remain viable.
A Legacy in Transition
At 75, Lindicke is still tending to his vineyard, but he worries about the future. He has yet to find someone willing to take over his life’s work. His situation underscores the broader uncertainties facing northern German viticulture: while climate change has unlocked new opportunities, it has also exposed the fragility of local winemaking traditions in a competitive and unstable environment.
Source: Vinetur