The 2024 Champagne harvest may have been marked by adversity, but the region’s resilience and focus on quality has allowed it to weather one of the toughest growing seasons in recent memory.
The culprit behind the struggles is downy mildew, a disease that affected vineyards across France. However, Champagne’s renowned producers remain optimistic, with yields lower than usual, but the quality of the grapes, especially Chardonnay, holding strong.
Downy Mildew: The Season’s Major Challenge
Downy mildew proved to be a significant challenge for Champagne growers this year, particularly in Aube, where the losses were most severe. The disease, caused by a fungal pathogen, thrives in humid and rainy conditions, which characterized much of the season. The mildew affected young vines in late June and early July, particularly in the Marne Valley, home to much of Champagne's Meunier grapes. Hailstorms earlier in the year also added to the pressure, damaging 500 hectares of vineyards.
While frost was not a major issue this year, the relentless spread of downy mildew caught many by surprise, impacting the yield across the region. Producers like Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, cellar master at Louis Roederer, reported seeing two to three fewer bunches per vine this season. These reductions will inevitably affect the quantity of wine produced, but the general sentiment is that the quality remains unaffected, or in some cases, has even improved.
Managing Organic Viticulture in Tough Conditions
The battle with downy mildew also raised critical discussions about organic viticulture in Champagne. Organic farming, which avoids synthetic chemicals and relies heavily on natural treatments like copper-based products, faced enormous challenges this season. These treatments require frequent re-application, and for many, the sheer pressure of the season meant that missing even a single treatment could lead to devastating losses.
However, some organic producers like Piper-Heidsieck’s cellar master Émilien Boutillat reported success, noting that their organic trials went well despite the pressure. This success, however, required meticulous attention to detail, and many producers without the same level of experience or resources struggled to protect their vines.
Conventional producers, on the other hand, used systemic fungicides to combat mildew. Even with different approaches, this season forced both organic and non-organic producers into the same boat, as the widespread pressure of downy mildew transcended typical methods of control.
A Quality Vintage Amid Lower Yields
Despite the widespread reduction in yields, the quality of the fruit in many areas, especially Chardonnay, remains promising. Producers in Reims and the Marne Valley, like Séverine Frerson of Perrier-Jouët, are optimistic about the vintage. Frerson reported that the fruitiness and freshness of this year’s grapes could result in an exceptional vintage, especially compared to the more difficult 2023 harvest.
Chardonnay, which ripens later than other varietals, is performing particularly well. A walk through the Côte des Blancs revealed minimal rot damage and moderate yields, though ripening has been uneven across the region. The outlook for Chardonnay, the backbone of many Champagne blends, seems bright. Vitalie Taittinger, president of Champagne Taittinger, expressed confidence in the potential of this year's Chardonnay grapes to produce a high-quality wine.
Meunier, which faced damage earlier in the season from hail in the Marne Valley, managed to avoid the worst of the downy mildew. The overall health of the grapes in this region, combined with the resilience of the producers, suggests that while 2024 may not be a large harvest, it could still yield high-quality wines.
Champagne’s Interprofessionnelle Réserve System: A Safety Net for Lower Yields
Champagne’s unique Interprofessionnelle Réserve system, formerly known as Réserve Individuelle, will play a critical role in mitigating the impact of this year’s lower yields. This system allows producers to hold back a certain amount of wine from previous harvests as a reserve, providing a buffer in years where yields are low. These reserves can be used to maintain production levels and ensure a steady supply of Champagne.
However, with this year’s significant losses, many producers will be forced to dip heavily into their reserves. For those who stored subpar 2023 wines, this presents a difficult decision: whether to use their reserves, which might not meet the high standards expected of Champagne, or to accept a smaller production and sell what they can. This dilemma could have long-term consequences for the availability of Champagne in the coming years.
Champagne’s Continued Global Appeal
Despite the challenges in the vineyards, Champagne’s reputation and global appeal continue to thrive. In Reims, the region’s big houses are doubling down on wine tourism, turning their cellars and vineyards into must-visit destinations for wine lovers. Ruinart, the oldest Champagne house, recently opened a new futuristic pavilion designed by Japanese architect Sou Fujimoto. This bold and imaginative space, set amid Ruinart’s historic cellars, offers visitors a chance to experience the blend of tradition and innovation that defines Champagne.
Taittinger, another iconic house, is also expanding its tourism offerings, unveiling new tasting experiences at its UNESCO World Heritage Saint-Nicaise cellars in Reims. The house plans to open a new restaurant in 2025, further enhancing the allure of the region for tourists and wine enthusiasts.
Meanwhile, the upcoming Champagne Experience event in Modena, Italy, on October 20-21, will showcase over 900 Champagne labels from 167 producers. Italy is the fifth-largest importer of Champagne, and this event highlights the growing enthusiasm for French bubbles in one of its most important markets. The two-day event will feature tastings, masterclasses, and a deep dive into the world of Champagne, further cementing its international prestige.
Champagne Back on the Formula 1 Podium
Adding to the excitement, Champagne is set to return to one of its most iconic global stages: the Formula 1 podium. Moët & Chandon will once again take center stage at the awards ceremonies, starting in 2024 and continuing until 2035, thanks to a lucrative 930-million-euro deal signed between Bernard Arnault, CEO of LVMH, and Formula 1. This agreement will bring Champagne back to one of the most watched events worldwide, reinforcing its image as the ultimate celebration drink.
Champagne and Culture: A Lasting Partnership
Champagne has always been closely tied to culture and luxury, and this year is no different. Bollinger, one of the most esteemed Champagne houses, is celebrating the 60th anniversary of the James Bond film Goldfinger with a special edition magnum. This limited release, a tribute to the Bond legacy, reflects Champagne’s enduring association with elegance and sophistication.
In another cultural collaboration, Dom Pérignon has paid homage to the late Jean-Michel Basquiat, one of the leaders of American neo-expressionism, with a special edition of bottles featuring his iconic artwork. These collaborations highlight Champagne’s unique ability to straddle both tradition and modernity, making it a symbol of timeless luxury.
Source: WineNews