The Bordeaux wine region, a cornerstone of France’s viticulture legacy, is grappling with a severe crisis that has exposed deep divisions among stakeholders in the industry.
At the heart of the turmoil is the Comité Interprofessionnel du Vin de Bordeaux (CIVB), the regulatory body tasked with representing and supporting Bordeaux’s wine trade. Increasing criticism and calls for its dissolution underscore the growing discontent within the sector, as economic and structural issues compound the challenges faced by winegrowers.
A Fractured Meeting
On Tuesday, the CIVB convened a critical meeting with representatives from major supermarket chains, producers, and winegrowers' unions to address the sector’s ongoing struggles. A central topic was the pressing issue of fair pricing. While supermarkets reported strong sales in the 4–10 EUR price range during the annual “Foire aux Vins,” broader pricing discussions remained contentious. According to the regional newspaper Sud-Ouest, the meeting was marked by tension and a lack of resolution.
Didier Cousiney, spokesperson for the Viti33 union, encapsulated the frustration among producers, stating: “We left as confused as we arrived.” Dominique Techer of the Confédération Paysanne did not mince words, labeling the CIVB as “politically and professionally bankrupt” and calling for accountability during the upcoming CIVB General Assembly on December 16.
Mounting Criticism Against the CIVB
Techer's critique of the CIVB extends beyond policy disagreements to structural inadequacies. He accused the organization of failing to fulfill its mandate to provide support and stability to the sector, arguing that its policies have left winegrowers increasingly vulnerable. Bankruptcy among producers is on the rise, with many at risk of losing not only their livelihoods but also their homes.
A particularly contentious issue is the funding mechanism of the CIVB, which relies on "mandatory voluntary contributions" from producers. This system has drawn ire for the perceived lack of tangible benefits it delivers to those footing the bill. Monday’s General Assembly promises to be a pivotal moment, with potential clashes between Techer, CIVB president Allan Sichel, and vice president Bernard Farges. Observers predict a fiery debate reminiscent of a previous confrontation between Techer and Farges six years ago, when criticism was dismissed as unconstructive commentary.
Abandonment and Vine Clearing
Adding to Bordeaux’s woes is the alarming trend of vineyard abandonment, which threatens not only the region's economy but also its ecological balance. The French government has taken legal action against four vineyard owners who neglected their vines, resulting in the proliferation of diseases that jeopardize neighboring plots. Fines of 5,000 EUR have already prompted two owners to uproot their vines, with a third pledging to follow suit. These cases may establish a precedent for more stringent enforcement measures starting in 2025.
Local authorities in the Blaye and Côtes de Bourg areas have issued warnings to 96 owners responsible for 270 hectares of abandoned vineyards, emphasizing their legal obligations. This initiative forms part of a broader vine-clearing program, “Arrachage Ukraine”, which has already seen 6,200 hectares cleared or repurposed in Bordeaux. The initiative aims to restore productivity to neglected lands and prevent the spread of disease, with plans to expand in the coming years.
A Pivotal Moment for Bordeaux
The Bordeaux wine sector stands at a crossroads. Monday’s CIVB General Assembly could be a turning point, either paving the way for reform or further deepening the divide among stakeholders. As producers and unions call for a more equitable and effective system, the fate of one of the world’s most iconic wine regions hangs in the balance.
The challenges Bordeaux faces underscore the urgent need for collaboration, innovation, and a renewed commitment to safeguarding its legacy. Whether the CIVB can rise to the occasion remains to be seen, but the consequences of inaction are all too clear for those who depend on the region’s vineyards for their livelihoods.
Source: Vinetur