If you have a passion for Bordeaux red wines, there's never been a better time to indulge.
In the past 2,000 years, Bordeaux has never experienced such a consistent streak of excellent vintages as it has recently.
This maritime region, exposed to the temperamental Bay of Biscay, historically produced at most three outstanding vintages per decade. Yet, from 2015 to 2022, only 2017 and 2021 fell short of excellence (though 2017 Pomerol and Sauternes were still delightful). The 2023 vintage is currently under evaluation, and further success seems likely. Global warming has transformed Bordeaux, resulting in reliably hot summers, a significant shift for the region.
According to local Météo-France reports, June, July, and August of 2015, 2016, 2018, 2019, 2020, 2022, and now 2023 have all been hotter than the 30-year summer averages, particularly in 2018 and 2022. Challenges have mainly occurred in the early months, with notable downy-mildew pressure due to wet springs in 2016, 2018, 2020, and 2023.
These early wet months have helped vineyards withstand summer heat, and timely summer storms have alleviated drought threats. None of these recent vintages suffered from drought, although it loomed in 2022.
Bordeaux’s top châteaux have implemented significant changes in both vineyards and cellars. The use of cover crops, heat-adapted canopies, new rootstocks, row orientations, massal selections for replanting, and agro-forestry are transforming the vineyards. Harvesting is now swift and precise, fruit sorting is meticulous, gravity systems have replaced pumps, extraction is delicate, less new oak is used, and alternative storage vessels are more common. Small-lot vinification allows for detailed blending, marking the most significant shift.
There has, however, been a change in the taste profile of ambitious Bordeaux wines over the past decade. The sunny, opulent flavors of vintages like 1982, 1989, 1990, 2000, and 2009 have given way to a new severity and precision. These wines are now praised for their acidity, freshness, and focus, offering impressive concentration, layered complexity, and drama.
The future of these wines and how they will age remains uncertain. European critics favor 2016 and 2019, Bordeaux enthusiasts champion 2022, 2018 offers excitement, and 2020 is a dark horse with outstanding results in some estates. Despite high scores and accolades, recent en primeur campaigns have struggled, with prices for top wines being a contentious issue. Yet, for those like me who purchase wines at £35 or less per bottle, mid-priced Bordeaux from these vintages offers unmatched value.
While I may miss the gentle warmth and friendliness of older Bordeaux vintages, the fundamental quality of Bordeaux remains unchanged. These great sites have always produced beautiful, approachable wines, and there’s no reason they should stop now. Climate change is real and ongoing, and such bounty may not last forever. So, seize the day and enjoy Bordeaux’s current golden age.
Source: Decanter