In a struggling market, Prosecco, the driving force of Italian wine exports, is bucking the trend.
In France, the home of Champagne, it posted the strongest growth of 2025 (+22.6%) in purchase volumes by bars, restaurants and hotels, and it is up a remarkable 175% since 2019.
What the study measures
The findings come from FranceAgriMer's "Study of the supply of wine to restaurants from wholesalers and cash & carry in 2025", which tracks wine purchases made by commercial restaurants through organized distribution. The channel is significant: it is estimated to account for about 40% of the wine market by volume.
A shrinking on-trade market
Overall, wine sales in the CHD channel (cafés, hotels, restaurants) are projected to fall in 2025, by 3.6% in volume and 3.8% in value compared with 2024, with prices stable.
Against pre-crisis levels, the picture is harder still:
- Volumes: down 21.1%.
- Average price: up 15.5%, which softens the loss in value but does not prevent an overall contraction.
- Total value: down 8.9%.
Still wines down, bubbles up
Still wines fell 4.9% in volume and 5.2% in value (€587 million). Sparkling and semi-sparkling wines moved the other way, with volumes up 6.3% and turnover up a more modest 0.9% (€193 million). That gap is partly explained by a 5% drop in the average selling price, now €10.7 per 75cl bottle.
Still wines still make up about 88% of CHD volumes. Sparkling and semi-sparkling wines account for 12%, yet they are the only category to have recovered its 2019 levels, exceeding them by 16.5% in volume and 6.2% in value.
Prosecco overtakes, Champagne lags
Most sparkling volumes are concentrated in Champagne, Prosecco, Lambrusco, Crémant d'Alsace and Crémant de Loire. Compared with 2024, Prosecco recorded the strongest volume growth (+22.6%), while Champagne, which represents 21% of sales volumes, lost 5.5%.
The long view is even more striking. The growth of sparkling wines since 2019 is driven mainly by Prosecco (+175%), while Champagne remains 25.7% below its pre-crisis volumes.
Prices: Champagne up, Prosecco accessible
Average prices have risen since 2019 in every sparkling category except Cava, which fell 6%:
- Champagne: +17%, to €21.16 per 75cl equivalent.
- Prosecco: +5%, to €5.30 per 75cl equivalent.
- Crémant de Bourgogne: +21%, the largest increase of all.
Prosecco's modest price rise helps explain its appeal: it offers a recognizable sparkling experience at a fraction of Champagne's price.
Reds lose ground to dry whites
Among still wines, reds are losing out to dry whites. Volumes fell across all types, but dry whites are holding up better and have gained market share (+6% since 2019). Compared with 2024, whites lost 13,500 hectoliters and rosés 16,446, while reds fell the most, by 34,500 hectoliters.
The wider restaurant context
The French out-of-home restaurant market served 7.4 billion meals in 2025 (-0.1%), with revenue of €85.6 billion net of taxes (+0.9%). Revenue now exceeds 2019 levels, though rising prices explain part of that gain. Diners are also changing habits: 45% adapt their restaurant experience to spend less, choosing cheaper venues, going for special offers or ordering fewer dishes.
Outlook
In a restaurant market where people spend carefully, Prosecco's combination of accessibility, familiarity and value is winning share even in Champagne's own backyard. If consumers keep trading down on price while still wanting something festive, the pressure on traditional premium sparkling and on reds is unlikely to ease soon.
Source: WineNews