Lisa Perrotti-Brown MW, renowned wine critic and Master of Wine, has released her Bordeaux 2023 Vintage Report under the evocative title “Welcome to the Jungle” via The Wine Independent.
The report highlights a tumultuous yet intriguing vintage shaped by climate extremes, production challenges, and standout performances from both banks of the Gironde.
According to Perrotti-Brown, the 2023 growing season was marked by “unusually tropical” weather patterns, with widespread mildew, unexpected heatwaves, and difficult harvest decisions creating what she calls a “Bordeaux jungle”. Despite these obstacles, some estates emerged with wines she places “at the pinnacles of greatness”, showcasing classical finesse and precision.
A Game of Terroir, Timing, and Tenacity
Perrotti-Brown identifies three key factors that most significantly impacted the 2023 vintage:
- Mildew Pressure – The vintage began with persistent mildew threats, turning vineyard management into a daily battle. Wealthier estates with the resources to tend vineyards meticulously had an advantage, yet some modest producers still triumphed through sheer dedication. “Spectacular wines were made in 2023 by one person on a tractor working their tails off,” she writes.
- Late-Season Heatwaves – August brought dreary, overcast conditions, raising doubts about grape ripening. However, a surge of heat in late August and early September helped restore hope. Still, this heat caused sunburn and berry shrivel, lowering yields and increasing the variability of results.
- Harvest Decisions – Timing was critical. Those who resisted the urge to pick early and practiced inter-parcel selection—harvesting only the ripest plots—were the most successful. Perrotti-Brown praises those who waited, calling their wines “stunning.”
Standout Regions and Styles
The report singles out Pomerol and Saint-Émilion as the most successful appellations of 2023, due to the resilience of earlier-ripening Merlot and Cabernet Franc. However, the vintage’s variability is evident across Bordeaux: some wines show a mid-palate thinness and short finish, attributed to overcropping and rain dilution. Nonetheless, exceptional wines emerged from both the Left and Right Banks, particularly in Médoc and Pessac-Léognan.
The Top-Scoring Wines
Perrotti-Brown awarded her highest score—a potentially perfect 98-100 points—to eight wines. These include:
- Château Ausone – Reserved at first, but reveals layers of blackberries, violets, pencil shavings, Sichuan pepper, and earthy depth.
- Château Canon and Château Lafleur – Both described as “ethereal” with grace and complexity.
- Château Haut-Brion – A dynamic wine that “shimmy and swirls” with energetic layers of dark fruit.
- Château Pavie – Described as “breathtaking”, with aromas of violets, star anise, cedar, and iron ore.
- Petrus and Le Pin – Both received top marks for their structure, depth, and aromatic brilliance.
Conclusion
Lisa Perrotti-Brown’s 2023 Bordeaux Report offers a nuanced perspective on a challenging vintage, urging buyers and collectors to dig deep into producer-level detail. While not universally consistent, the 2023 vintage rewards those who managed adversity with precision and patience. It is a vintage where “true greatness” coexists with caution, and where both terroir and timing proved critical.
Source: Liv-ex