Consumers increasingly want lighter, less structured, "ready-to-drink" wines, and red wines are paying the price.
The shift is global, and it reaches even Burgundy, the French "cradle" of some of the world's most prestigious labels. There, the best performer of the past year is not a famous Pinot Noir but Crémant de Bourgogne, the region's sparkling wine, which is growing fast and filling the gap left by reds.
A resilient region, thanks to white wine
According to the Comité des Vins de Bourgogne, bottled sales of still Burgundy wines fell by just 1.3% in the 12 months to July 2026, reaching 166 million bottles. The decline was limited because white wines, which make up 61% of the region's production, held up well, helped in part by falling market prices.
Add Crémant de Bourgogne to the picture and the market is essentially flat (+0.05%), with nearly 200 million bottles sold over the period.
Whites edge up, reds retreat
White wines grew a modest 0.4% to 116 million bottles. The French wine market shrank by 1.6%, but exports compensated, rising 4.3% to the European Union and 1.9% to non-EU countries.
Reds fared worse, down 4.9% over the same 12 months. Not even the Grands Crus of the Côte d'Or, which might be expected to be shielded by rarity and prestige, were spared: they fell by 12%. Exports (-0.7%) could not offset the 7.6% contraction of the French domestic market.
Crémant: the exception that proves the trend
Crémant de Bourgogne is the region's most dynamic appellation, with sales up 6.5% at the end of July 2026 versus a year earlier. It now accounts for 17% of bottled sales volumes, up from 12% in 2021. Its freshness, approachable style and versatility match exactly what today's consumers say they want.
Smaller harvests and comfortable stocks
Inventories fell 2.3% at the end of July 2026, a decline closely tied to harvests. For several years Burgundy has struggled with falling yields, and the Committee says the 2026 vintage will confirm the trend.
Current stocks look manageable:
- White wines: just over a year of sales, close to the five-year average.
- Red wines: nearly two years of sales, above the average.
The 2026 harvest, below the five-year average, will force a review of availability forecasts. Existing stocks should partly offset the short crop and keep meeting demand, with no immediate risk of supply disruption.
Exports: more bottles, less value
Over the 12 months to July 2026, Burgundy exported more than 100.2 million bottles (+2.3%), but their value slipped 2.4% to €1.63 billion.
- United States: €292.4 million, down 21.2%, the main drag on results.
- United Kingdom: the second-largest market, up 3% to €243.37 million.
- Italy: more than 2 million bottles sold, with value up 21.1%, a small but notable gain.
Outlook
Burgundy's numbers show a region adapting rather than collapsing. White wines and Crémant are carrying the market while reds go through a difficult phase shaped by changing tastes, a weaker French market and a sharp fall in US demand. With a smaller 2026 harvest ahead, the coming year will test how well the region balances limited supply against shifting consumer preferences.
Source: WineNews